Hollowtech BB removal

TheBigBean Posts: 21,148
edited June 2010 in Workshop
I have a Shimano 105 Hollowtech I (not II) crankset, and I'm trying to remove the BB, I'd be extremely grateful for any assistance:

- I think I need a Park BBT-18 to remove the lockring, but am not completely sure. The lockring definitely has 8 notches. Is this correct, and is it worth buying this specific tool, or should I go with a more generic tool that I would be able to use on other bikes?

- I have a square taper crank puller and understand there is some giszo (like a coin) that I can put on the end to make it work. Is this the sort of thing that Cycle Surgery are likely to be able to sell me, or should I just splash out on a new one?

- Are there any other pitfalls I should look out for?

Many thanks


  • careful
    careful Posts: 720
    This is on offer now, but lots of other similar ones around.
    You dont need any puller for HT2. The large end is for tightening the bearings into the frame (well tight). The small end is just nipped up finger tight to eliminate side float. Great debate about whether the bb of the frame should be faced first (local bike shop job). Persoanlly I have never bothered and have had no problems with bearings. Most important is to tighten the two crank bolts to the correct torque, and tighten each one progressively. If you dont have a torque wrench then its fairly tight using a normal length key (not a mini tool). Check the bolts after a short ride.
  • careful
    careful Posts: 720
    Sorry, half asleep! Just realised you are removing the cranks. Tool advice still applies though - and presumably you will be refitting HT2. I would also advise removing the crank bolts progressively to prevent distorting the crank. Also, before pulling the L/H crank off, remember to flip out the little black safety catch with a srewdriver or similar. It just swings out a few degees.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Ignore the last two posts - this is for a HT1 chainset - internal bearing, not HTII external bearing so information is wrong.

    Not clear from your description as to whether you have an HT1 BB either - these are cartridge type and don't have a lockring and used a splined tool to screw either side into the BB. Suggest you look on Park Tool to ID your parts. e.g. Park BBT-32 will work with HT1 and ISIS types.

    You can use an adaptor for an older sq taper crank puller - it's more of a tophat shape otherwise there's a risk of it turning and jamming inside the BB spindle. However, they generally come supplied with the puller, not separately.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • TheBigBean
    TheBigBean Posts: 21,148
    Thanks for your help.

    It is definitely an HT1 crankset (not 2) and I'm fairly sure the BB has an 8 notch lockring. Maybe it is better if I remove the cranks and inspect things more closely.

    The main problem I have is that I went to my LBS and asked for the tools and they sold me completely the wrong one (totally the wrong size and number of notches), so I figured it might be easier if I worked this out myself, or maybe bought a more generic tool.