Bleeding Juicy 3s - torque wrench required?

Anonymous

The instructions Avid have for Juicy 3 bleeding involves a torque wrench. Whilst I have one, it's only for high torque, not the low torque range.

Buying a kit is already £30+, and a torque wrench is a significant expense on top.

I know it's advised but does anyone really bother with one? If not, what's a good way to get a feel for the right torque?

NDawn

Afaik, and I've never done a bleed before, all you need is a torx T10? to un do the bleed ports. Although if you are loosening the levers from the bar they may need tightening up to a specific torque.

Ah I've just watched the video and they doo state a specific torque for tightening the levers.

Luke-Dob

The Torx T10 is normally provided with the Avid Bleed Kit for opening the bleed ports.

The use of the Torque wrench is for doing up the mounting bolts for the caliper and levers.

ftwizard

You'll find a wrench in the bleed kit, this is for tightening up the cable nuts if you have shortened the cables. If you don't need to shorten the cables, then you wont need a torque wrench.

Anonymous

Thanks. The manual is for both shortening and for bleeding. The list of tools you need mentioned at the beginning doesn't make it clear as it mentions both the Torx and a torque wrench, but reading through, yeah looks like I don't need it just for bleeding.

Atz

To be honest, as long as you're not a total idiot (and I don't think you are), you'd have a fair idea of what "tight enough" is. It's not as exact as a torque wrench but I've done without one so far.

monkeypants

I've done it a few times without a torque wrench, it just makes things easier with the crow's foot tool, but anything like a ratchet wrench with a square head will be fine, I think I've done it with an old allen key that I stuffed into the hole.

Deputy Dawg

ftwizard wrote:

You'll find a wrench in the bleed kit, this is for tightening up the cable nuts if you have shortened the cables. If you don't need to shorten the cables, then you wont need a torque wrench.

The supplied wrench is double ended. One end is indead for shortening the cables but the other end whislt being too large for that, is strangely the perfect size for the bleed port on the caliper.

Oh, I've never bothered with a torque wrench either. Might be an idea if you have carbon bars though.

Dawg

diy

While this video is for J7s its almost an identical process for the J3s. The difference being that you dont have pad contact wheels to wind out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mg6NbIjmOM

I followed this video pausing it in places, the first couple of times I did a bleed its very easy to follow.

The first time you do it you might want an extra pair of hands. But its an easy job.

PS its a star bit you need - a Torx, as said not a torque wrench.

chaindrive1970

they recommend torque settings to stop you stripping the threads out of the aluminium brake calipers. you would have to be a bit of a heavy handed gorilla to do it though, bsic rule: if it leaks it ain't tight enough

nicklouse

chaindrive1970 wrote:

they recommend torque settings to stop you stripping the threads out of the aluminium brake calipers. you would have to be a bit of a heavy handed gorilla to do it though, bsic rule: if it leaks it ain't tight enough

but the calipers do not have any threads.

Anonymous

I've done a bit of a bleed anyway using the trick of tying back the levers overnight. Surprisingly that works pretty well.

Still needs a full bleed at some point, but it's loads better than it was.

diy

That just pressurises the system reducing the affect that the bubbles will have - it does nothing to get the air out.