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HELP!!! Novice with gearshift problems. SRAM X5/SX5

bigred407bigred407 Posts: 4
edited May 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi guys, despite being 32 & having bikes for years i'm not very technically minded when it comes to repairs. My good friend usually helps but he's been busy of late & i really want to get this problem sorted so i can use my bike again. I'd take it to the local shop but everytime i go there they look at me like i have two heads & i'd rather sort it myself if i can without forking out for a repair bill.

BIKE: 2009 GT Tempest 1.0



Now to outline the problem. I removed the wheels front & rear to fit another set of tyres to try. That was the easy part, although i found removing the rear wheel a bit fiddly due to the bike having horizontal drop outs (something i'm not used to) which may be where i've done something wrong. So... tyres changed, pumped up & wheels refitted (back one fiddly going back in again) & out for a quick run around the block to make sure all is good. It wasn't. Front mech shifting fine. Rear mech is where the problem is. It shifted fine but it's like it's shifting a cog out if that makes sense? I mean it won't shift down to the smallest cog at the rear & when trying to shift to the largest it wants to shift too far & drop down behind the rear cassette. I've had a look & can't see anything snagged or that looks out of place. Rather than mess around with the screws on the rear mech i adjusted the tebsion on the shift cable to try and remedy the problem but it doesn't solve the problem fully & leave the chain a bit "jumpy". Only thing i wasn't sure of is when putting the back wheel back in the drop out was if it was originally all the way in or somewhere in the middle, would this make any difference?

I'm assuming i've done something stupid which can be repaired easily (i hope!!) & i'm sure some of you guys will probably know what to do so.... HEEEELLLP!!!!




  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Sounds like you do need to adjust the limit stops.
  • anjsanjs Posts: 486
    Did you do any damage removing the wheel might be bent gear hanger?
  • bigred407bigred407 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input guys. Thinking i'll remove the rear wheel again to check & see if i've damaged anything, then refit & try it. Then if it's still the same i'll try moving the limit screws. I know i'm asking whats probably obvious but i take it thats the ccrews marked "+" & "-" :oops:
  • CfergCferg Posts: 347
    Yeah, H and L it will be, High and low, play about with them there's some good videos on youtube, but you should notice what they do by playing about with them and shifting inbetween.

    You'll want to bring the high down and the low up if that makes sense, the H screw is too loose so is allowing the rear to go too far?

    That is if your problem is down to the screws.
  • captainflycaptainfly Posts: 1,001
    It sounds like the cassette/indexing are off by a cog, which is odd, before you start playing with limit screws or even cable tension (as your current shifting sounds like a too tight cableor bent inwards mech hanger ) check the wheel is lined up and in the dropouts properly.
    Pic would be good from the rear of the mech.
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • GwareddGwaredd Posts: 251
    What /\ he said. If it was shifting fine before you took the wheel out, you've done something wrong putting the wheel back in. Have you done the skewer up too tight or too loose? Sometimes that can put the shifting out a fraction.
  • diydiy Posts: 6,473
    Definitely leave the limit screws alone and check the wheel is properly home in the drop outs. Gears don't suddenly start dropping a cog.

    However, check also that the cable screw is not loose and slipping, it might be that the mech is not biting the cable properly and its slipping.
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