Rear Mech Adjustment

pilot_pete
Posts: 2,120
Hi all
http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/2010_OEM_MANUAL_UK-07-09.pdf, page 50, screw 'H' in fig 13 to adjust distance shown in fig 15.
I am guessing this can only be done with the chain off? Also, it's not very descriptive. Is screw 'H' adjusting an internal spring tension? Before I take my chain off and check it I would like to understand the adjustment a bit more, all it says is that anything outside of the recommended 7mm can affect 'snappyness' of the gear change. I suspect this is the culprit as I am getting the occassional 'tinkering' and delayed shift dropping down the sprockets, from the third to fourth to fitth.
All the previous adjustments for mech top roller alignment and derailleur stops/ cable tension, fourth sprocket alignment etc have been carried out. The hangar has never been 'dinged' from the bike being new 2 months ago, so I am assuming it is not bent out of alignment.
It is a Campag Centaur 09 groupset, 10 speed if that makes any difference. I am fairly mechanically minded having rebuilt car engines and the like, so know my way around a few spanners, so would prefer to be able to learn my own bike mechanics.
To remove the chain, what splitters are recommended (again, Centaur 10 speed chain) and do they do a quick link to aid future removal for cleaning etc? Where can I find any more info about the chain as I see it has one pin different from the others with a hole through it, is that to be avoided when splitting the chain.....?
Cheers
PP
http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/2010_OEM_MANUAL_UK-07-09.pdf, page 50, screw 'H' in fig 13 to adjust distance shown in fig 15.
I am guessing this can only be done with the chain off? Also, it's not very descriptive. Is screw 'H' adjusting an internal spring tension? Before I take my chain off and check it I would like to understand the adjustment a bit more, all it says is that anything outside of the recommended 7mm can affect 'snappyness' of the gear change. I suspect this is the culprit as I am getting the occassional 'tinkering' and delayed shift dropping down the sprockets, from the third to fourth to fitth.
All the previous adjustments for mech top roller alignment and derailleur stops/ cable tension, fourth sprocket alignment etc have been carried out. The hangar has never been 'dinged' from the bike being new 2 months ago, so I am assuming it is not bent out of alignment.
It is a Campag Centaur 09 groupset, 10 speed if that makes any difference. I am fairly mechanically minded having rebuilt car engines and the like, so know my way around a few spanners, so would prefer to be able to learn my own bike mechanics.
To remove the chain, what splitters are recommended (again, Centaur 10 speed chain) and do they do a quick link to aid future removal for cleaning etc? Where can I find any more info about the chain as I see it has one pin different from the others with a hole through it, is that to be avoided when splitting the chain.....?
Cheers
PP
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Comments
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No need to remove the chain. The <7mm specified is roughly the clearance to aim for with the chain running through it. Too close & the chain will have trouble shifting as the mech is clashing with the cassette / too far away and you don't get very quick changes.
The 'H' screw is just a screw that sets the 'stand-off' position of the mech itself (against the gear hanger).
It sounds like you need to adjust the cable tension barrel adjuster slightly (maybe a-quarter to half a turn or so). Turn clockwise (when looking at the bike from the rear) to release a little cable tension.
'Tinkling' from the mech can often be caused if you're 'cross-chaining'. (ie. big/big or small/small on the chainring/cassette).Cycling weakly0