Bolt Through or QR axle
The Big Cheese
Posts: 8,651
Righto, my current rear wheel is 12mm x 135mm thru axle.
The Cotic I am buying has standard 10mm/QR dropouts.
I can get 2 different types of 12-10mm adapter:
Bolts on/nutted
QR
Im thinking Bolt on as I am a heavy rider, however does anyone think the QR to be a better idea?
QR Type
bolt on type
Thoughts?
The Cotic I am buying has standard 10mm/QR dropouts.
I can get 2 different types of 12-10mm adapter:
Bolts on/nutted
QR
Im thinking Bolt on as I am a heavy rider, however does anyone think the QR to be a better idea?
QR Type
bolt on type
Thoughts?
0
Comments
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I'd always go QR, otherwise you have to take a spanner with you in case you puncture.0
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I've just been looking at this myself and just bought the Hope Pro 2 converter and the NC-17 10mm QR Axle.
From the comments that I've seen about the general consensus is that the bolt on is great for heavy stuff like DH, freeriding etc and the QR axles are enough for trail riding, XC and the like, so I've just stuck with the QR axle, plus you don't need to carry a spanner just in case you need to remove the wheel. Also I'm heavier than you and I'm more than confident that I'll be ok with my choice*
*rights reserved to change opinion at any timeOrange 2010 P7 - Custom Build - My New Bikey Poos
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ride_whenever wrote:how about best of both with one of these
I am possibly being thick here but that's not a 12mm-10mm 'step down' though is it, I mean that would rattle around in the 12mm hub?
Hub is a 12mm thru axle WTB LaserDisc 'Superduty'
Dropouts are standard so what I need is a step down converter.
Hence why I dont think that nor DMC's suggestion is any good.0 -
Yeah, the Superstar thing would work in a 10mm bolt-through hub but not with yours.
I guess it just depends how far you believe these things make a difference. Apparently my hemlock has the squiggly back end but it doesn't really seem to matter, I could stiffen it with a bolt-in but not sure it's worthwhile myself. A BFe's not exactly weak after all.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Sorry Mr Cheese, I read it as you were getting the hub converted to a 10mm, must read harder
The rest of the info is still relevant thoughOrange 2010 P7 - Custom Build - My New Bikey Poos
Click Here for FREE Cashback on purchases inc. Wiggle/CRC/Evans & Halfords0 -
Sorry i misread it due to being bored out of my skull in a grad lecture...
I'd go qr for convenience...0 -
I'm one for the bolt through can't beat a stiff rear end0
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I like bolt thrus too. Can't beat a stiff front end..0
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It's a steel hardtail, so I'd go for QR. (you don't have linkage producing lateral movement, plus you want the flex, no?)0
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i put a simlar one to that ss one on my heckler,, it made a huge difference to stop the rear end flex...
do they not make a 12mm one.. don't dt swiss make a 12mm one but it silly money around £45..www.bearbackbiking.com
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrDelcol#play/uploads
hd vids
http://www.youtube.com/user/topasassin#play/uploads
http://www.vimeo.com/user2514116/videos0 -
Thanks for comments guys, yes its a steel hardtail. And I do wan't 'some flex' and feel to the rear end, although not overly fussed.
Just means though, that I have to spend another £17 on a QR (we all know it's going to be something overpriced and British) whereas the bolt-through is £17 all-in.
I dont mind carrring a 10mm spanner in my pack, hardly weights anything does it FFS
I can see the rationale from both sides now....
Hhhmmmmmm :?0 -
Da Mighty Chicken wrote:I've just been looking at this myself and just bought the Hope Pro 2 converter and the NC-17 10mm QR Axle.
From the comments that I've seen about the general consensus is that the bolt on is great for heavy stuff like DH, freeriding etc and the QR axles are enough for trail riding, XC and the like, so I've just stuck with the QR axle, plus you don't need to carry a spanner just in case you need to remove the wheel. Also I'm heavier than you and I'm more than confident that I'll be ok with my choice*
*rights reserved to change opinion at any time
Thing is... you won't notice any difference.
Standard hubs are 10mm. the QR is 9mm, but the hub sits in the dropouts,
Whereas a hub with a 10mm bolt thru sits between the dropouts and runs on the 10mm bolt.
I had it on my NS because saint rear hubs are 10mm. Couldn't notice any difference at all.0 -
bigbenj_08 wrote:Standard hubs are 10mm. the QR is 9mm, but the hub sits in the dropouts,
Whereas a hub with a 10mm bolt thru sits between the dropouts and runs on the 10mm bolt.
Standard QR skewer is 5 mm. Unless I'm missing what you're getting at.0 -
sorry yea that makes no sense :roll:
Either way, what sits in the dropouts is 10mm. wether its a bolt or the hub, it makes no difference.
I think thats what I meant.0 -
bigbenj_08 wrote:Either way, what sits in the dropouts is 10mm. wether its a bolt or the hub, it makes no difference.
I think thats what I meant.
That's true, but it's not the only factor. A thicker axle is (presumably) more rigid, and can prevent a shear type effect where one "leg" (dropout in this case) moves forward relative to the other.
I would think this has less effect at the back than on a fork.0 -
I guess on a FR HT is makes sense.. but like I said, didn't notice the difference on the NS!0
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bigbenj_08 wrote:I guess on a FR HT is makes sense.. but like I said, didn't notice the difference on the NS!
If the frame is stiff enough, you shouldn't. 8)
I imagine the NS to be a pretty stiff frame, but I've never ridden one.0