Removing an old cassette?

t0pc4t

I just want to check I am not doing anything too stupid here. I have a 2007 trek 3700 that I recently snapped the rear mech off

So on went a new mech and chain, but then I found it slipping in 2nd- 5th under load on any chain ring, so I reckoned a worn cassette was likely to be the issue.

So I bought a chain whip and a cassette lockring tool removed the quick release and the nut from the cassette and am now trying to remove the splined section by holding the gears with the chain whip and using a massive wrench to try and turn the lock ring tool.

Is it expected that this is as tight as a very tight thing that's just been on an all lemon diet?

I've had to douse it in GT 85 and leave it a while as while I am not a bodybuilder I am far from a small chap either.

Am I missing anything or are old cassettes just generally very tight?

T1berious

It can be pretty tight

I've done it a few times and if it's after a really mucky winter it can be a mare to get off

You might also find that your chain will slip off the middle ring. you might get lucky and not have to replace it.

Good luck

T1b

t0pc4t

many thanks bud!

kona_matt

i have, quiet litterally in my lunch break, just done exactly what you're trying to do and yes, it was bloody tight and very gunked up following a winter of mucky riding. i needed a very long adjustable spanner on the lock ring tool to get the thing to move. remember, the lock ring needs to turn anti-clockwise to undo, i've made that mistake before!

t0pc4t

cheers mate, I had my torque wrench on it so a good foot

maybe it'll be easier tonight

fredy

i tried to do the same the other day but the cassatte tool i bought is just a tiny bit too big, grrr.

t0pc4t

are they not pretty much universal?

fredy

i've tried and tried to get the thing in but its jsut too big.

captainfly

t0pc4t wrote:

cheers mate, I had my torque wrench on it so a good foot

maybe it'll be easier tonight

Firstly don't use a torque wrench you could send it out of calibration using it break a seal. Secondly a foot it not long enough if it is tight, two foot is hard work three is about right.

t0pc4t

thanks captain, as look would have it I have a big f**k off tyre wrench that I'll try with

cheers!

Anonymous

Did mine last week and it was a right pain to do also.

Solution for me was soaking in WD40 for a few hours and then taking a mini blowtorch to it (well turboflame butane thing which I got for melting p-tex on my skis ). One or both of these solved the problem as it came of fairly easily after that.

I had the chain whip wrapped around the next up from middle so the chain goes mostly the way round. It's better to wrap it around the bigger rings rather than smaller, apparently.

Oh, and do a search on You Tube for some videos showing you how to do it. Though they all have lockrings that aren't stuck and come off easy.

P.S. When refitting, stick a bit of anti-seize grease on the lockring thread and don't do like many a bike shop gorilla probably does and just tighten it up as hard as you can do. Up to 4 or 5 clicks on the lockring I've read, or otherwise 40Nm on the torque (and yes, don't use the torque wrench for undoing!).

None of that I knew before last week, so I've learnt something

Next problem for me is the crank bolt which won't budge, and I've run out of butane for the turboflame .

The Rookie

Wrap the whip round the biggest gear to maximise leverage, use a large ratchet and once you have the cassette ring tool in place wind the ratchet back so you pull the whip handle and ratchet handles together and arn't struggling trying to hold the wheel steady and the whip handle and the ractchet with your 2 hands!

Simon

Anonymous

Discovered the benefits of a breaker bar today. Just got a 24" long one to get the crank bolt off and it worked great. Might be useful for cassette lockrings too. As I say though, once off, refit with anti-seize grease.