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Seized stuck parts

AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,667
edited April 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
I'm finding either I'm completely weedy (quite a possibility) or my bike's parts are just jammed on way too tight. Either that or I just don't get it (quite possible too :D).

Been struggling with removing the crank. A Firex GXP that uses an 8mm key fitting and no matter what I try it seems stuck fast.

And giving up on that (was so I could service the pivots on my i-drive), now I can't get the cassette off the rear wheel. Read all the numerous threads on stuck cassettes, and checked out various guides and videos. I'm certain I'm doing it right, it's just like others have found, it's stuck damn tight.

I'm thinking that getting a bike pre-assembled isn't such a great thing and starting to realise that using a torque wrench is actually very important else you end up over tightening. I'm betting the monkeys who did mine (yeah, I know, it was Halfords, although I'm not sure they assembled it), just did everything with brute force and nothing else.

It's really annoying me now as everything I try to do some maintenance on is just stuck hard.

Got myself a torque wrench anyway so if and when I do get these things off, I can do them up properly. The guy in the LBS (not Halfords) even gave me a demonstration on how to use it properly.

Still haven't got the cassette off. I'm up to soaking the lockring in WD40 for a while. Tried various suggestions including taking a mallet to the wrench and/or whip. Not budging so far. Don't have a vice to stick the cassette tool in as some have suggested. Looking like a job for the LBS. All the time this is just wasting my weekend.

Posts

  • captainflycaptainfly Posts: 1,001
    Get a good long breaker bar (not ratchet socket wrench) 2 foot minimum length or failing that a some steel tubing that will go over the end of the hex key or smaller breaker bar, the extra length will make undoing bolts much easier. As for the cassette I have to wedge my chain whip under a part of my multigym and use a three foot pole to undo it from it's 40Nm and knurled lockring. It give load more control so you can be smooth with the pressure.
    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,667
    Aha! Just finally got the lockring off!. Not sure if it was the WD40 soak, but took my little Turboflame to it to heat the ring and after that with a good old shove it finally came off. :D

    New cassette fitted no problem. Doing it up though with the torque, the torque was not hitting the 40Nm (it's supposed to make a click as I understand?), but there were about 5 loud clicks from the lockring which is what many of the guides suggest (the Bike Radar one included). Although maybe with the lockring clicking I wouldn't notice the wrench. Anyway, seems firmly on.

    Will deal with the crank later. I suspect once I've done that the pivots will be hassle too (they use BB cartridge tools).
  • JamesBrckmnJamesBrckmn Posts: 1,360
    old handlebars are useful as levers for undoing things
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    deadkenny wrote:
    Aha! Just finally got the lockring off!. Not sure if it was the WD40 soak, but took my little Turboflame to it to heat the ring and after that with a good old shove it finally came off. :D

    re fit it as it is used to remove the arm.

    just dont lock it onto the 8mm bolt as that sounds like what had happened before.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
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