Stiff jockey wheels
When cleaning my bike I decided to remove the jockey wheels to clean and lube them.
I removed the 2 screws holding them (and part of the cage) on, cleaned and re-attached. Now the top jockey wheel is stiff as it is rubbing against the cage.
I made sure I put them on in the same way as prior to being removed. The screws are part threaded so I though this would allow for the correct spacing when tightened but this is not the case. As there was some blue stuff on the threads I thought that they were held with some type of thread lock but I didn't have any so have had to put a small washer in as a spacer and all works well - although the cage is getting very close to the wheel spokes when on the largest sprocket (i have ensured that the limiiting screws are suitably set to avoid them the cage hitting the spokes while still allowing the gear to be used).
So have I lost a part that I didn't notice? do the screws just get held with thread lock? Or is it something else that I have missed? The derailleur is Campag Champion so low spec standard jockey wheels.
TIA
I removed the 2 screws holding them (and part of the cage) on, cleaned and re-attached. Now the top jockey wheel is stiff as it is rubbing against the cage.
I made sure I put them on in the same way as prior to being removed. The screws are part threaded so I though this would allow for the correct spacing when tightened but this is not the case. As there was some blue stuff on the threads I thought that they were held with some type of thread lock but I didn't have any so have had to put a small washer in as a spacer and all works well - although the cage is getting very close to the wheel spokes when on the largest sprocket (i have ensured that the limiiting screws are suitably set to avoid them the cage hitting the spokes while still allowing the gear to be used).
So have I lost a part that I didn't notice? do the screws just get held with thread lock? Or is it something else that I have missed? The derailleur is Campag Champion so low spec standard jockey wheels.
TIA
Kev
Summer Bike: Colnago C60
Winter Bike: Vitus Alios
MTB: 1997 GT Karakorum
Summer Bike: Colnago C60
Winter Bike: Vitus Alios
MTB: 1997 GT Karakorum
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Comments
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I fettled my Veloce drivetrain when I moved it from one frame to another. I dismantled the rear mech and noticed that each jockey wheel consists of 5 parts:
1. the wheel itself
2. a bearing
3. one washer/spacer which fits over the bearing on the drive side
4. another washer/spacer which fits over the bearing on the non-drive side
5. a grub screw to hold it all in place
Do you have all those parts per wheel? And do you have the top and bottom wheels in the correct location and rotating in the correct direction?Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/143173475@N05/0 -
yup, all wheels parts present and correct and in the correct position/orientation as the bottom jockey wheel has a directional arrow. I'm normally pretty good with these things and pay attention as to how things come apart but this is annoying.Kev
Summer Bike: Colnago C60
Winter Bike: Vitus Alios
MTB: 1997 GT Karakorum0 -
You shouldnt need washers or threadlock. Assuming it is Shimano (eg 105):-
The top pulley on Shimano is marked G- Pulley. The top jockey wheel is the only one that has sideways loads (when changing gear). To cope with this It has a larger metal bush into which a sleeve bearing fits. A cupped washer fits into the groove on either side. The width of the sleeve bearing is greater than that of the jockey wheel so the jockey should always run freely even if you fully tighten the screw.
The bottom jockey just provides chain tension and has no metal bush, just a sleeve bearing and cupped washers either side. Again, any loading will be on the sleeve, not the jockey itself.
I hope this helps.0 -
Sorry, just noticed you did say Campag. Please ignore my stupid answer!!0
