What Cables? Jagwire / Nokon / Yokozuna

relanium
relanium Posts: 487
edited October 2010 in Road buying advice
What cables do people have on their build? And do you have them both on your brakes & gears or just on one.

Comments

  • I'm nearly about to pull the trigger on the Yokozuna's!
  • grim3ur
    grim3ur Posts: 46
    Ive got Yokozunas and what a difference to shifting and breaking. Shifting is so smooth and I just can't describe how good they are, the breaking is spot on, its as if you don't have cables. Got mine here.
    Have had Nokons but they creaked for some reason and I like a silent ride.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    relanium wrote:
    What cables do people have on their build? And do you have them both on your brakes & gears or just on one.

    I like cables on ALL my shifters and brakes, not just one. Sorry couldn't resist.
    Seriously, use Campy on Campy, Shimano on Shimano, etc. and you won't go wrong.
    Cables are cables and there isn't much difference in them. Despite what the advertisements say. You won't be missing anything by not using some MUST HAVE
    brand.
  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    £4.15 for a full unbranded set from Probikekit on both bikes. They work well enough for me never to have to think about them.
  • carl_p
    carl_p Posts: 989
    grim3ur wrote:
    Ive got Yokozunas and what a difference to shifting and breaking. Shifting is so smooth and I just can't describe how good they are, the breaking is spot on, its as if you don't have cables. Got mine here.
    Have had Nokons but they creaked for some reason and I like a silent ride.

    £45 for cables? :shock: You be pretty peed off if you cut them wrong.
    Specialized Venge S Works
    Cannondale Synapse
    Enigma Etape
    Genesis Flyer Single Speed


    Turn the corner, rub my eyes and hope the world will last...
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Carl_P wrote:
    grim3ur wrote:
    Ive got Yokozunas and what a difference to shifting and breaking. Shifting is so smooth and I just can't describe how good they are, the breaking is spot on, its as if you don't have cables. Got mine here.
    Have had Nokons but they creaked for some reason and I like a silent ride.

    £45 for cables? :shock: You be pretty peed off if you cut them wrong.

    Wow. That's a bit of money. More than I care to pay, for something I've never had
    problems with. Maybe, maybe, if they solved some problem but.........
  • huuregeil
    huuregeil Posts: 780
    Use cheap cables, but also use some kind of cable lube, which makes a noticeable difference. E.g. I have rock & roll cable magic, and it's magic! Much much cheaper than funky cable sets.
  • stevie63
    stevie63 Posts: 481
    I recently had to change the Gore Ride on sealed cables (Cost about £40 a set) that came on my bike when I bought it secondhand. I replaced them with the £8.99 a set Clarkes cables from Halfords (Needed them quickly, couldn't wait for them to be delivered from somewhere like CRC).

    I can honestly say that I don't notice any difference between them (Well apart from when the Gore ones needed replacing cos the brakes weren't working any more).
  • FHKJ
    FHKJ Posts: 151
    Only my brakes (Di2!!) but Nokons feel great for me.
  • Squillinossett
    Squillinossett Posts: 1,678
    I think I will be putting Nokons on ze bikes when I replace, but just for the bling factor!
  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    dennisn wrote:
    Carl_P wrote:
    grim3ur wrote:
    Ive got Yokozunas and what a difference to shifting and breaking. Shifting is so smooth and I just can't describe how good they are, the breaking is spot on, its as if you don't have cables. Got mine here.
    Have had Nokons but they creaked for some reason and I like a silent ride.

    £45 for cables? :shock: You be pretty peed off if you cut them wrong.

    Wow. That's a bit of money. More than I care to pay, for something I've never had
    problems with. Maybe, maybe, if they solved some problem but.........

    It's a performance issue. There are also benefits to some segmented designs like greater flexibility for tight cable runs. Our own cable housing is immune to corrosion for example, and the customer also benefits with stronger brakes... the "mushy feeling" totally disappears.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    huuregeil wrote:
    Use cheap cables, but also use some kind of cable lube, which makes a noticeable difference. E.g. I have rock & roll cable magic, and it's magic! Much much cheaper than funky cable sets.

    I do like the RocknRoll stuff.... the blue for chain does it a treat...but

    any tips for using the cablemagic whilst cables in situ or is it a matter of dismantling?
  • MAS4T0
    MAS4T0 Posts: 43
    JGSI wrote:
    huuregeil wrote:
    Use cheap cables, but also use some kind of cable lube, which makes a noticeable difference. E.g. I have rock & roll cable magic, and it's magic! Much much cheaper than funky cable sets.

    I do like the RocknRoll stuff.... the blue for chain does it a treat...but

    any tips for using the cablemagic whilst cables in situ or is it a matter of dismantling?

    Sorry to revive an inactive thread, but there is a simple solution to this.

    Shift to the largest cog on the cassette, then WITHOUT pedalling, upshift to the highest gear. This will create a lot of cable slack. You can then remove the cable outers from the stops and slide them freely along the cable, allowing you to lube them without having to disconnect the cable from the derailleur.

    The front derailleur cable can be done in a similar way, just shift to the smallest chainring and pull the derailleur upwards to create sufficient cable slack.

    Rear brake can be done the same way, just push the pads together to create the slack.

    As the front brake has one continuous outer, it will be a case of disconnecting the cable.
  • Wheelspinner
    Wheelspinner Posts: 6,562
    MAS4T0 wrote:
    Sorry to revive an inactive thread, but there is a simple solution to this.

    Shift to the largest cog on the cassette, then WITHOUT pedalling, upshift to the highest gear. This will create a lot of cable slack. You can then remove the cable outers from the stops and slide them freely along the cable, allowing you to lube them without having to disconnect the cable from the derailleur.

    The front derailleur cable can be done in a similar way, just shift to the smallest chainring and pull the derailleur upwards to create sufficient cable slack.

    Rear brake can be done the same way, just push the pads together to create the slack.

    As the front brake has one continuous outer, it will be a case of disconnecting the cable.

    Good tips, provided you don't have cables routed under your handlebar tape?
    Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS
  • Scrumple
    Scrumple Posts: 2,665
    use Gore ride on, professional.

    the inner sleeve covers the cable to seal all the gunk. Love 'em.
  • Pokerface
    Pokerface Posts: 7,960
    Cheap cables work, sure. The more expensive ones last longer and work better. The fully sealed Gore ones are the best I've used. And as they are fully sealed - never had to work about corrosion or dirt all year round.