Adjusting stem

APB
Posts: 13
I'm currently experimenting with my riding position with the help of some useful YouTube fitting vids which someone posted on this forum a few weeks ago. I currently have my Boardman road bike set up in quite a relaxed, relatively upright position but now fancy trying a more 'aggressive' position, see if it suits.
I'd like to lower my handlebars and potentially flip the stem. Can anyone tell me how to do this or direct me to a thread/link which explains clearly how to? I'm the least mechanical person you'll ever meet. I'm sure its very simple and can probably work it out but just want to make sure there isn't anything I could potentially balls up?
I'd like to lower my handlebars and potentially flip the stem. Can anyone tell me how to do this or direct me to a thread/link which explains clearly how to? I'm the least mechanical person you'll ever meet. I'm sure its very simple and can probably work it out but just want to make sure there isn't anything I could potentially balls up?
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Comments
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To remove the bars just undo the front clamp bolts and the bars should come away.
The stem is fixed in two places - the top allen bolt holds the cap in place, so remove that. The stem itself clamps around the steerer tube by means of the two allen bolts that fit horizontally through the clamp, Loosen these, and the whole thing should slide up & off with no difficulty.
Flip it over, replace everything but leave the fixing screws finger tight so that you get everything lined up, then nip the bolts up. If you have a torque wrench use that, but nipping them up should do.0 -
Thanks for the response - sounds straight forward enough.
Am I correct in thinking that after I've flipped the stem over I can also move the spacer on top of the stem to go even lower?
Also, what is the better way of lowering - flipping the stem or keeping the stem as it is and moving the spacers to sit above it? Would doing both generally take it too low? I've not got my bike here so can't tell!0 -
Just move the spacers first, from below to above the stem, it`s a 2 minute job and see how that suits you. If you flip the stem and move the spacers all in one go you may find it a bit to much until you adapt to it (ie your back will object)Jens says "Shut up legs !! "
Specialized S-Works SaxoBank SL4 Tarmac Di20 -
You can remove spacers from below the stem to reduce the height. The size of each spacer (typically 5 or 10mm) will dictate how much lower the bars will be.
Flipping the stem and decrease in height will depend on length and angle of stem, for any given angle the longer the stem the lower the bars will be.
Personally I'd go down the spacer route first as it's simpler and requires a bit less mini-spanner twirling.
I've just dropped mine 10mm by moving one spacer from below the stem to above it.
One thing to be careful of is; if your retaining/loading cap is held into the steerer with an adjustable/expanding plug, if it is make sure it doesn't come undone when you loose the top bolt and fall into the fork steerer - this can happen with some types of them,0 -
Thanks for the advice guys - I'll have a look at the spacers first tonight... and maybe flip the stem if I reckon I could go lower but shouldn't need too I'd imagine.
Cheers0 -
Make sure you torque the top allen screw correctly.To loose and you will have free play to tight and you knacker bearings.TAKE CARE0
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I've since moved some of the spacers to above the stem and re-tightened the top allen screw. Obviously very easy. I tend not to tighten anything too tightly without checking but out of curiosity how would I know if I had damaged the bearings? I'm sure I haven't but you've made me paranoid now!0
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Sorry didnt mean to worry you trouble is a lot of the lads on here have been playing with bikes for so long they tend to forget to mention things they do without thinking.
Dont quote me but I think the best way is to lossen the two bolts that hold the stem to the steerer dont undo just lossen.undo top allen screw then tighten upsupposed to be about 4 nm whatever that is ask reddragon he'll know.hold front brake on and see if you have any movement in the forks.Then lift front of bike and make sure steering falls from side to side easily.I think thats right if not have a look on workshop or post a question on workshop.0 -
When you've finished and think it's all good, I would *strongly* recommend getting your LBS just to check it over, especially if you don't have a torque wrench.
All things carbon are very sensitive to the applied torque, and if you get it wrong, you can do some expensive damage. Think: too loose, and in the middle of a fast turn your steerer tube slips in the stem. Bad. Too tight and you can weaken the tube by crushing.
None of it is hard to actually do, but not worth risking a nice bike, or a crash, because it's not done right.Open One+ BMC TE29 Seven 622SL On One Scandal Cervelo RS0 -
Thanks for the help guys - I didn't have a torque wrench unfortunately, but I tightened it just enough to remove any play. I'll check the spacer movement tonight to double check its not too tight. I'll mention it to my LBS guy next time I take it in. Its my old bike with an alloy steerer so potential damage through over-tightening isn't quite as bad I'd imagine but I guess the bearings is still an issue. It feels fine though - you'd notice it grinding if it had done some damage to the bearings I'm guessing.0
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Hi APB
I attempted to do the exact same thing a few days ago. Seemed quite simple until I got to the spacers, I assumed they'd just lift straight off but they didn't seem to want to budge. I'm basically looking to lower the front end by moving a spacer at a time to the top of the stack.
Did you find any force needed to remove them, or should it be a straight forward lift up and off?
CheersWind. Cold. Rain. Pick two.0 -
They just lifted straight off, no force needed. I can't really suggest why they would be tight as I'm a bit of a novice. Will they not budge at all? Maybe they've contracted in the cold if aluminium? My spacers are carbon.0