Tubes vs Tubeless

Squarepants
Squarepants Posts: 1,019
edited December 2009 in MTB buying advice
I've searched and haven't found anything so here goes.

Whats the difference between tubes and tubeless? Obviously tubes have inner tubes within the tyre but whats the advantage of having tubeless? Is it just weight (or lack of?) I would have thought tubes would have been better as the thorn etc has two layers to travel through before you have to push rather than one but a lot of comments here advocate tubeless. The other thing I'm confused about is could I buy tubeless tyres where im running tubes at present? What happens to the hole in my rim for the presta valve? What stops all the air coming out? This is the hopefully the last bastion of my noobness.

Thank you
Cube Hanzz Pro FR
It's not that I'm over over biked, my bike is under personed...

Comments

  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    You run sealant with tubeless so the outer tyre still punctures, but then it re-seals. Or that's the idea anyway ;)

    I like my tubeless, but do be wary of the tubeless fanatics- in a lot of cases tubeless isn't lighter, I've seen posts from people who are running heavy, but think they're saving weight. A stans strip plus sealant weighs more than a lightweight tube. (or compare with DH tubes- that's when you know you're dealing with a real fanatic ;) Light weight isn't the only selling point but, be realistic.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Squarepants
    Squarepants Posts: 1,019
    OK thanks Northwind that clears up some points, so it is largely down to wieght saving. How does the valve work if theres no inner tube inside the rim? How do you install the valve? I know this is probaly a silly question but everything obvious when you know the answer :roll:

    Cheers
    Cube Hanzz Pro FR
    It's not that I'm over over biked, my bike is under personed...
  • GHill
    GHill Posts: 2,402
    You can typically run lower pressures (for more grip) with tubeless.

    A valve stem is usually used to fit in the hole in the rim, you still need to be able to add air to it.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    OK thanks Northwind that clears up some points, so it is largely down to wieght saving.

    Well, not really, like I say a lot of tubeless setups add weight, a reliable XC tube can be sub-100 grams while sealant and a stans strip is about 110g (depending how much sealant of course!) The BMX tube "ghetto" method can be a lot more.

    But, you get a good degree of punctureproofing (not flawless, but good). And no more pinch flats, unless you really whack it, which is what sold me more than anything else. (and that also allows lower pressures, should you want that, though I run the exact same pressures as I did with tubes).

    For the valve, sometimes you'd use something like this:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=17697

    Just a screw-in valve, like a car. But that's not generally the way it's done, unless you have wheels that are designed to work for it, most people use something like a Stans strip:

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/ ... LUK&cc=GBP

    Which is basically half an inner tube. Or alternatively, you can use... half an inner tube!

    http://www.spadout.com/a/ghetto-tubeles ... inchflats/
    Uncompromising extremist
  • toooooooooooooooooooooooooooobs.

    Tubeless is just a faff.

    Its in the same category as a dropper seatpost.... "if only it was cheaper it'd make sense. But it isn't so it doesn't".
  • Squarepants
    Squarepants Posts: 1,019
    Ok Northwind very informative, thank you for taking the time to put together such a detailed response, I admit I did slightly miss your point the first time around (I blame my bout of flu atm)

    Thank you all, I know now :lol:
    Cube Hanzz Pro FR
    It's not that I'm over over biked, my bike is under personed...
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    No worries, people on here told me how to do it ;)
    Uncompromising extremist
  • grumsta
    grumsta Posts: 994
    http://www.tubelesswheels.com/

    Advantage is no pinch flats ever (and no punctures at all for me so far), plus lower pressures for more grip.
  • bigbenj_08 wrote:
    toooooooooooooooooooooooooooobs.

    Tubeless is just a faff.

    Its in the same category as a dropper seatpost.... "if only it was cheaper it'd make sense. But it isn't so it doesn't".

    how cheap do you want it? £25 for ghetto setup to try!
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    bigbenj_08 wrote:
    "if only it was cheaper it'd make sense. But it isn't so it doesn't".

    My tubeless setup cost me less than the price of 2 quality inner tubes. As long as you discount the price of the wheels :lol:

    I think, after trying "ghetto", I'm not so keen on that. But proper wheels, sensible tyres (not neccesarily UST) and sealant works very well. The only time it's any different really is changing tyres- if you're a tyre shuffler it's more hassle.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    I'm tubeless ready, but still run with tubes.

    UST tyres are still pricey - another 10-20%
    What do you do if you rip the tyre while out in the field and it wont re-seal?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    diy wrote:
    I'm tubeless ready, but still run with tubes.

    UST tyres are still pricey - another 10-20%
    What do you do if you rip the tyre while out in the field and it wont re-seal?

    what do you do if you rip your tyre with a tube in? i know you can gaffer it up and put a card in there and theres no reason why you cant slip a tube in there and do the same on a tubeless setup
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    diy wrote:
    I'm tubeless ready, but still run with tubes.

    UST tyres are still pricey - another 10-20%

    What do you do if you rip the tyre while out in the field and it wont re-seal?

    I don't use UST tyres, just regular ones, works fine so far though the sidewalls are obviously less tough. But I don't want the weight penalty of UST. I think just about anyone who does tubeless carries a tube, just in case.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Squarepants
    Squarepants Posts: 1,019
    Ive just realised that im not sure what I'm running? I always assumed im running tubes because... im not sure. After this conversation im hoping im running tubeless. Ive got Maxxis Ignitor 2.3 UST LUST's. Now UST means Universal Standard Tubeless? What does the LUST stand for?

    These tyres are a bloody minefield :roll: :wink:

    And I havent even started on 42a 70a ratings yet :shock: (I realise they're the compounds but what to go for...) Thats another thread for another day, im sure it's been covered already somewhere.

    I'll go and rip a tyre off and have a look, just realised I havent got any tyre levers :roll: Ive been carrying a tube with me but no levers :lol: what a plonker

    Update: I have tubes
    Cube Hanzz Pro FR
    It's not that I'm over over biked, my bike is under personed...
  • leon69
    leon69 Posts: 53
    grumsta wrote:
    http://www.tubelesswheels.com/

    Advantage is no pinch flats ever (and no punctures at all for me so far), plus lower pressures for more grip.

    second that no pinch flats and no punctures been using them fro 2 years now ( i run a high PSI for more speed over hard ground )
    If you dont bleed your not trying ...
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    Northwind wrote:
    I don't use UST tyres, just regular ones, works fine so far though the sidewalls are obviously less tough. But I don't want the weight penalty of UST. I think just about anyone who does tubeless carries a tube, just in case.

    hmmm interesting, good advice, I'll have a look at that as an option. I kindof assumed it would be a big faff removing the seal trip and valve in the field.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    You'll get utterly latexed :lol: But it's not really any more of a faff than changing a tube other than the suspicious white goo.
    Uncompromising extremist