grease/Lithium Grease/Anti seize
Comments
-
Teflon grease is great, I use it the most for various jobs. Lithium grease is good for moving parts (bearings) but I find it tends to solidify over time if used on posts/bb threads & causes seizing problems.
Anti seize I use when fitting BB's & tend to use copper grease as it's cheap.0 -
Copper grease is intended for high heat and specifically (to reduce brake squeal) on the backs of car brake pads.
The idea is that even if the grease in the copper grease mix gets baked solid or chemically broken down the particles of copper will still remain.
Copper grease has almost no use on a bike, possible use on back of disc brake pads.
Copper grease MUST NOT BE USE ON ALUMINIUM parts. Copper grease will worsen (may even cause) galvanic corrosion.
http://www.cdcorrosion.com/mode_corrosi ... lvanic.htm0 -
I think teflon grease is best when you need the grease to keep dirt & water out of the bearing. Lithium grease has less drag (in my experience), but washes out easily.
I'd use a medium anti seize (eg loctite 243) on all fasteners to prevent corrosion & loosening.0 -
mmacavity wrote:Copper grease is intended for high heat and specifically (to reduce brake squeal) on the backs of car brake pads.
The idea is that even if the grease in the copper grease mix gets baked solid or chemically broken down the particles of copper will still remain.
Copper grease has almost no use on a bike, possible use on back of disc brake pads.
Copper grease MUST NOT BE USE ON ALUMINIUM parts. Copper grease will worsen (may even cause) galvanic corrosion.
http://www.cdcorrosion.com/mode_corrosi ... lvanic.htm
in that case (never heard that before but it makes sense) then it has no use on bikes at all...0 -
-
+1 with mmacavity on copper - only on squealing pads...nowhere else.
All threaded parts...use an anti-seize...best is a none-metallic one. These avoid galvanic corrosion and so seizing which can happen between differing metals.
As for grease...most basic greases are 'lithium grease'. Teflon is a solid lubricant and is left behind if a grease is removed / washed away that contains it. It is used in some circumstances to thicken grease so can seem to have more drag.
Key...use a decent grease with regular maintenance and even loose ball systems will be fine.0 -
Threaded parts on bikes can rust and or sieze over time and through washing (even without power washing) so might be an idea to use Loctite thread lock .
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products ... 8&plid=1530 -
I use thread lock on small stuff that I don't want to come loose - brake fixings, suspension pivots and the like. For everything else I use Castrol LM grease. It's a lot cheaper than bike specific stuff and doesn't was out of bearings.0
-
http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds/
Copaslip®
Copaslip® (often misspelled as copperslip or coppaslip) - the original anti-seize compound. It is a very high temperature (up to 1100°C) anti-seize assembly compound, bentone based non-melt grease with copper, polybutene, and anti-corrosion additives.
http://www.molyslip.co.uk/theory_of_lubrication/0 -
mmacavity wrote:Threaded parts on bikes can rust and or sieze over time and through washing (even without power washing) so might be an idea to use Loctite thread lock .
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products ... 8&plid=153
Trouble with threadlock is that though it does decrease the risk of seizing, it can still happen. And then, you have a seized, threadlocked bolt. And since you're a cyclist, 9/10 times you have a seized, threadlocked, overtightened bolt. And since it's on a bike, it'll be a lightweight, delicate bolt, often with a shallow head. And also, sometimes threaded into alloy or a helicoil, which strips or backs out. And the head will be full of mud and possibly corroded. And all in all, I prefer to use grease
But theradlock does have its places, in single-point-of-failure safety or system critical stuff. Uncompromising extremist0 -
Should I not use TF2 Teflon grease on bicycle chains? I've been using it on my single speed. I hadn't notice it doing a bad job. The chain dries out, I grease it, it looks properly lubricated and stays that way for a while.0
-
Wow, a 7 year thread ressurection. A world record?
Use chain lube on chains - the lube needs to get inside the rollers, where wear occurs, so needs to be relatively thin. Grease will just gunk up the outside where it does no good at all.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Relevance of username?cooldad wrote:Wow, a 7 year thread ressurection. A world record?Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
It might be an old thread but new people will ask old questions. :?:
Sometimes, old people will ask old questions ... like I'm about to!! :oops:
What should one use on cassette lockrings? I've always used a thin smear of grease (the white stuff - is that Lithium?), and mostly this has been fine. But the last cassette I replaced, I couldn't get off; neither could my bike mechanic ((broke the chin whip and injured his shoulder!) until taking an angle grinder to it, which by heating it up and agitating it, finally meant the lock-ring could be released. He fitted the new one with some red (Teflon) grease.
I seem to recall a bit of a debate on here a while back, but can't recall what the consensus was ...
So ... grease (and if so, what type), or no grease?0 -
Never had a problem with lockrings. I don't bother, but a smear of grease can't do any harm.
I just use ordinary WB grease in a tin from Halfords for most things. It's greasy and the tin is about 10 years old and still half full. For anything with plastic or rubber I use Castrol red grease.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0
