Upgrade path?

DamonC
DamonC Posts: 263
edited December 2009 in MTB buying advice
Given the start point of a mid-range standard bike, in my case a 2010 Trek 8000. Is there a general view of the order in which you might start to apply upgrades? What I mean is a consensus on what to spend more on as the returns are greater.

For example my thinking is:

Wheels for weight saving and improved rolling performance
Tyres for improved performance and potentially weight saving
Brakes for improved performance
Bars, stem, seatpost, seat for weight savings
Drivetrain upgrades for improved performance and some weight saving

Would that be a fair order to go about upgrades?

Of course the rider improvements are a given ;)
Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.

Comments

  • llamafarmer
    llamafarmer Posts: 1,848
    Tyres and tubes first - nothing will make a bigger difference for as little money
    Giant Anthem X
    Cube Ltd Race
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Yeah, tyres are a relatively cheap gain. Then wheels and forks. I'd say if the brakes work then leave them. And, if the ones you've got are right for you, bars and stem are an expensive item that won't change much at all.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    As above - tyres/tubes & wheels.

    Brakes - hmmmmmmmmm different maybe but better? YMMV.

    Drivetrain - new Deore is better than knackered XT.
  • Wololo
    Wololo Posts: 36
    If you're going to change the bars and stem, do it to make the bike fit better rather than for weight savings. You might want a shorter stem for snappier turning, or a longer stem to get your weight forward for climbing a bit. But looking to the finishing kit to save weight is an expensive thing to do.
  • The Spiderman
    The Spiderman Posts: 5,625
    The Trek 8000 is a pretty nicely speccced bike and there isn`t anything obvious that stands out as needing upgrading.
    Might get some grippier tyres for winter but you`ll spend loads to make a small performance improvement.
    2006 Giant XTC
    2010 Giant Defy Advanced
    2016 Boardman Pro 29er
    2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
    2017 Canondale Supersix Evo
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    That is a lot of planned upgrades for a new bike. Why not just buy a better bike if you can afford it?
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • DamonC
    DamonC Posts: 263
    supersonic wrote:
    That is a lot of planned upgrades for a new bike. Why not just buy a better bike if you can afford it?

    Agreed. I really fancy the Trek 9.9's in the classifieds atm :D

    My question was more about the principles than the budget. In technical terms what is the best return on investment in performance potential?

    As an example on a race car its weight, tyres, brakes, suspension in that order (generally).

    For hifi its source device, amp then speakers.

    So in those terms we are so far suggesting...

    Tyres and tubes (if applicable)
    Wheels

    Then suspension?

    I am not looking to spend lots on the Trek 8000 over its life, but I am planning to reward myself/it with some nicely chosen upgrades as I hit my training goals.

    But as I replace/buy parts I am planning to have a really light bike at some point so if I put all the components together at some point I will.
    Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    It does depend what is specced to start with (and I'd agree the same with a HiFi too ;-))

    I agree with tyres and tubes, and the wheels do look to be a bit below par. But the rest is really well balanced, so it will cost a lot to see any difference, it at all (ie going from an XT chainset to XTR for example for £300).

    Eventually you'll start to think about the frame too - should I have gone for an even lighter carbon one?

    Always buy the best you possibly can to start.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • DamonC
    DamonC Posts: 263
    Cheers.

    Yes I did consider the carbon Trek 9.7 but at the time as I allocated more of my budget to my road bike :oops: so compromised on the MTB. Now I wish I'd bought neither and bought the 9.9 in the classifieds :lol::lol::lol:

    Thanks for the feedback on the bike, I'll research the wheels. I've got some Nobby Nics to go on it but really happy with the Pana XC's atm as I am very slow/unfit and will put the Nics on in the Spring.

    Throwing all considered thought aside I really fancy:

    Ritchey CF bar
    Ritchey CF stem
    Avid Juicy Ultimate, black with CF levers

    :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
    Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.
  • The Spiderman
    The Spiderman Posts: 5,625
    I`d leave the brakes and use the money towards wheels.Hope XC 3 wheels or similar would be a worthy upgrade.

    You could use the Nics now.They are lighter than the Panaracers and not much less grippy.
    2006 Giant XTC
    2010 Giant Defy Advanced
    2016 Boardman Pro 29er
    2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
    2017 Canondale Supersix Evo
  • DamonC
    DamonC Posts: 263
    Thought provoking stuff, thanks guys :)

    So something like this?

    http://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/produc ... c&id=11194

    The trouble with the Hope is I'd have to change discs too. It seems 185mm is the largest they do and being a 'big' guy I'd look for a 203mm up front.
    Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.
  • DamonC
    DamonC Posts: 263
    Ah this would do the trick

    203mm front

    http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/index ... 6&brandID=


    185mm rear

    http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/index ... 2&brandID=
    Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.
  • DamonC
    DamonC Posts: 263
    Ok being more sensible and staying with current rotor sizes to avoid the need for caliper adapters.

    185mm front at 673kg
    160mm rear at 855kg

    http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/index ... 6&brandID=
    http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/index ... 0&brandID=

    Schwalbe Nobby Nic Evolution Triple Nano Folding at 540g each with Schwable ExtraLight tubes at 130g each.

    Total = 2.868kg for £404.54

    Seems like a good return on investment. Need to weight current setup I guess.
    Suffering from the light bike fat git syndrome.
  • MrChuck
    MrChuck Posts: 1,663
    bails87 wrote:
    Yeah, tyres are a relatively cheap gain. Then wheels and forks. I'd say if the brakes work then leave them. And, if the ones you've got are right for you, bars and stem are an expensive item that won't change much at all.

    +1

    On a £1500 bike these things just aren't really worth upgrading unless they break/wear out, which will be soon enough for the drivetrain!

Categories