New fork, quill--aheadset

rubberjungle
rubberjungle Posts: 54
edited November 2010 in Workshop
My winter bike is a 1995 Allez with a quill stem and an aluminum fork.
I fancy fitting a new carbon fork with mudguard eyelets.
What else do I need to sort out my headset to be compatible with the new fork?

Comments

  • jimwin
    jimwin Posts: 208
    You can ditch your quill stem with the new forks. 1" carbon forks will have a 1" aluminium stem that needs to be cut to size and will protrude ~2" above the top of the frame. You'll need a 1" stem (getting somewhat rare these days) and a small number of 1" spacers. You can use the spacers to adjust the stem height and hence the handlebar height.

    It's a good move to get rid of the old quill stem IMO. If you're unsure, visit your LBS.

    - JimW
  • rubberjungle
    rubberjungle Posts: 54
    edited October 2009
    Thanks Jim,
    would it be possible to go the whole hog and change the headset for a 1 1/8th or is my head tube the wrong size, and is it easy to remove and fit the bearings?
    I am mechanically able but info before starting is always good.
    If I do it I may as well get it bang up to date to avoid compatibility probs in the future and I have a spare lightweight 1 1/8th stem.
    Will I need new handlebars too?

    So many questions sorry.



    EDIT TO ADD..

    Not sure if I am getting confused with MTB stems and headsets etc, there seem to be plenty of 25.8mm stems on ribble.
    My bars are 1 inch diameter is this the measurement you were referring to?
    I assume the 25.8mm will clamp onto the new steerer but not sure about the bar clamp size.

    Thinking of these forks.

    www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.as ... TALFORW350

    thanks in advance.
  • term1te
    term1te Posts: 1,462
    It is the diameter of the head tube that will define which forks and head set you need. I recently swapped a 1 inch quill setup for a threadless system, also 1 inch. You will need to replace the headset, which is easy if you have the right tools, but can be a nightmare. I used a shim to fit the stem to the fork. All works a treat now.
  • jimwin
    jimwin Posts: 208
    You won't be able to change to a 1 1/8 headset - it's simply too difficult to change without totally re-building the frame.

    Your handlebar should still fit a standard stem (as long as the stem is for a 1" fork diameter).

    And Ribble may advertise 1" audax forks but you'll note they are out of stock. There are getting more difficult to source these days. I just did a brief search and there's not much around on the web that is actually available but Ribble show stock of this:

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... EDAFORR455

    You'll have to forgo any idea of using mudguards with these. 1" audax style forks with mudguard clearance and eyes are now like gold dust.

    Maybe someone looking at this thread can help.

    JimW
  • Many many thanks jimwin and the other replies.
    I didn't spot the forks were not in stock doh.
    So is a 25.8mm stem a 1" stem as I'm sure you know an inch is 25.4mm?
    If so I can order the fork you link to buy a stem and I am away.

    I have SKS mudguards on the bike now which has no eyelets on the fork but I fitted them to the fork with the supplied P clips and they have not moved in the 2 winters they have been on so hopefully I can "engineer" them onto a new fork in the same manner.

    Thanks again for the info as I don't want to end up wasting money buying the wrong stuff.
    Incidentally there is nothing wrong with my current fork just a harsh ride as it is aluminum maybe I should just live with it?
  • geoff_ss
    geoff_ss Posts: 1,201
    jimwin wrote:
    You can ditch your quill stem with the new forks. 1" carbon forks will have a 1" aluminium stem that needs to be cut to size and will protrude ~2" above the top of the frame. You'll need a 1" stem (getting somewhat rare these days) and a small number of 1" spacers. You can use the spacers to adjust the stem height and hence the handlebar height.

    It's a good move to get rid of the old quill stem IMO. If you're unsure, visit your LBS.

    - JimW

    Why is it such a good idea to get rid of a quill stem? Whilst it might be forced because of lack of availability of replacement forks, as a system they are perfectly good. I've used them for years on singles, tandems and trikes. I always used top quality Cinelli bars and stems after a GB handlebar broke in my hand just as I was about to climb out of the saddle - I rode the remainder of the hill to get home with just one hand :)

    The old threaded stearer/quill stem system is perfectly reliable and convenient (easy to change handlebar height). The only reason for the change to so called ahead sets is lower cost IMO.

    Geoff
    Old cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    I agree with Geoff_SS that there is nothing wrong with a quill stem unless you're getting some handlebars with the newer 31.8 clamping dia. in which case you'll need an Ahead stem. Seems to me you may want to consider just getting another bike if you don't like the ride of the Allez. Since your Specialized is almost 15yrs old I'm assuming it's had quite a few winter miles on it and the components may be fairly worn. Putting that much more money into a fork doesn't seem like a good investment. Remember you'll still have to pay a shop to cut threads into the steerer to use with your old threaded headset or if you go the newer threadless route you'll have to invest in a new threadless headset+ a new stem so, you can see that the £££'s start to add up. Since you mentioned that you dislike the harsh ride, a new threadless setup will only make it more harsh than with a quill stem which would reverse some of the gain achieved with a new carbon fork.
  • Great stuff guys.
    I love the Allez as the fit is spot on for me, the ride could be less buzzy but as it is my winter bike maybe I should get 25mm tyres which will improve it. Not sure about mudguard clearance tho as it is very close.
    The bike is campy 8 speed but I overhauled the hub and had it built into an open pro rim last year, put new cables on and the shifting is smooth, I have a spare rear 8 speed mech, it has centaur skeleton brakes bought 2 years ago but I have never touched the BB because I havn't needed to--campy quality?. I replaced the small chainring, new cassette and chain last year so all in all it is in great condition.
    I think I will leave it be as didn't know I would have to thread the steerer etc, wait untill something expensive needs renewing like the ergo's and buy a ribble Audax bike, I can fit my centaur brakes to it.
    Are the ribble Audax frames any good? ie not too heavy.
  • bill57
    bill57 Posts: 454
    There's forks available here that would suit you -
    http://www.shop.kinetic-one.co.uk/kinet ... -262-p.asp
    I'm sure I read a thread here about converting a threaded headset to threadless, simply by filing the threads out of the threaded top ring. Anyone remember this, or better still, tried it?
  • Kris1
    Kris1 Posts: 24
    I am in the same boat.

    I have a 1995 Specialized M2 comp (in red, no other colour for a Specialized) full ultrgra 9 speed and I love the bike fast and stiff. The frame was a replacement for an original M2 in matt grey. As a replacement frame I missed out on the carbon forks. However since I bought a trek alpha black framed bike ultgra triple for sportives, I now find the m2 very harsh on the front end. In fact on an odd sportive after 70 odd miles I felt very fatigued when the trek is still comfortable. To upgrade I recon the cost of the forks, headset, spacers, stem and bars will push the cost well past £200. I have also seen second hand alpha black frame sets go for around £150. However I like the retro style of the M2 and most who know their bikes see to go all misty eyed when they see it. Maybe just keep the M2 as a sprint bike. Oh help……
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    DO NOT use threaded fork with a threadless headset/stem - they simply were not designed for that purpose - filing the thread reduces the material thickness and will not allow the stem to clamp either. You can however use a threaded fork provided you have enough threadless portion i.e. chop off the threaded piece if your headtube is quite short. Contrary to some views, replacing an aluminum fork with carbon will make a perceptible improvement in both comfort and handling speaking from experience.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • stickman
    stickman Posts: 791
    If a quill stem is good enough for Condor's new bike (and Pashley, Bob Jackson etc.) it'll do for me.
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