Light strategy...

OK, so i'm into electronics and i'm going to build my own bike-light system.
I do occasionally go out training at night and building some kind of circuitry into my spare lycra jersey, an old belt or my helmet are ideas i've had, but i'm wondering which sort of route to go down:
1) Use 1 or 2 really blinding LEDs
2) Use 30 or 40 smaller LEDs
Obviously, strategy 2 would create a bigger image to a driver, but would not be as bright.
I would do a combination of both, but I don't want to have to carry around loads of batteries to power it all.
Both projects would be of similar price/difficulty to build.
I do occasionally go out training at night and building some kind of circuitry into my spare lycra jersey, an old belt or my helmet are ideas i've had, but i'm wondering which sort of route to go down:
1) Use 1 or 2 really blinding LEDs
2) Use 30 or 40 smaller LEDs
Obviously, strategy 2 would create a bigger image to a driver, but would not be as bright.
I would do a combination of both, but I don't want to have to carry around loads of batteries to power it all.
Both projects would be of similar price/difficulty to build.
I'm making my own lights - what should I do? 0 votes
Use 1 or 2 really blinding LEDs
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Use 30 or 40 smaller LEDs
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As you are Bhima and as only a totally radical solution is sufficient, surely this is the answer?
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2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
Out of interest, what is wrong with just buying a reay made light set?
I personally would go with a mixture of the two. To be honest, I don't thin you can possibly have too many lights.
Drivers will think you are a UFO!
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
The blinding LEDs are very expensive. Normal LEDs are not.
Very very cheap to mek your own LED lights. Plus, every light i've ever bought/borrowed is not very shock resistant and tends to turn itself off when I hit the slightest bumps.
Actually, stringing 40 LEDs together will take me half an hour, but the more high-powered LEDs take a lot more effort. It's not as radical as it sounds.
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
That's what I'd do.
I have no evidence for the following but my gut feeling is that I'd go for a large number of dimmer lights that did some random, non-synched flashing pattern if there was ambient light with regular traffic around (I would expect this to be more noticed), with side visibility as Aidy said; and a small number of bright lights if it is dark/deserted.
Although my 3rd option, for the first scenario, would be one flashing bright light (to be noticed at first) and 15-20 dim ones in a random, non-synched flashing pattern to maintain curiosity and the driver's attention.
FCN3
http://img87.yfrog.com/img87/336/mycubeb.jpg
http://lonelymiddlesomethingguy.blogspot.com/
Lamp on the top of his helmet, 3 on his back and one on the seatpost. Not to mention wing mirrors. On both sides. AND he had the flappy-feet syndrome of pedals on his heels.
...all that was missing was the checked trousers and braces
www.bikehike.co.uk/mapview.php?id=22736
Yeah - but you saw him, didn't you
FCN 8
"Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
- Terry Pratchett.
the man was a menace, I was laughing so much I nearly fell off and under a passing truck
www.bikehike.co.uk/mapview.php?id=22736
The lights facing more towards the side are mainly for the benefit of cars passing/overtaking you, and those cars will only ever be a few metres away from you when they're in a position to be passing, so the LEDs facing towards the sides don't need to be very bright because the distances aren't very big.
The lights facing backward are for the benefit of cars approaching you (before they get to the stage where they device to overtake), and on a long, straight road they could potentially be a long distance back down the road, but you would still want them to see you so more powerful LEDs are required.
Think about what you want to achieve (and the practicalities of it) and that should dictate what you want to build.
And back on topic.. I'm not sure where you're riding, but most of my scarier moments have been cars flying at me whilst I'm on roundabouts. Therefore the sides can be equally as important.
I've now got 3M tape and a fibre flare light to give more 360 degree vision.
I'd go for the cheaper option first as a pilot, and then figure out what works best for you.
FCN 8
"Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
- Terry Pratchett.
Also you claim that commercial lights are unreliable. The homemade wiring on 30 LEDs is going to be worse
As usual I am not sure what exactly you are trying to achieve
follow on
As for side lighting, red or white? AFAIK you shouldn't display red to the front or white to the back...
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
I agree, also why some reflective stickers on the sides of your forks or frame work well.
Also there is a greater chance of a helmet mounted light being seen by a pedestrian stepping out from between parked cars because the parked car will obstruct their view of your bar mounted light
Personally I think a mx of lights at different heights can only be a good thing from a visibiltystand point
I know, it's sad, but I quite like that idea.
Other than that, i'd go for the 300-400 dim led approach. If you're going to do it, do it PROPERLY! :twisted:
go on...i dare you
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
Nice! Ghost rider - bet you'd end up on You Tube in no time!
Sounds an interesting project - but there are similar things on the market - flashing Reflective belts and things.
Personally I'd just stick with bright lights on the front to see, 2 smartlights on the back, reflective strips all over the bike and on my jacket - and for finishing touches - tyreflys on the wheels.
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred