Cutting handlebars
ross_mcculloch
Posts: 478
I ride a Brodie Loki (below)...the handlebars are a bit too wide for a lot of the trail/forest riding I do.
http://www.progressive-bikes.co.uk/2008/loki.html
HANDLE BAR: Syncros Bulk 2014 Al • 31.8mm x w 720mm x r 20mm
How easy is it to trim them down or am I better just buying some narrower handlebars?
http://www.progressive-bikes.co.uk/2008/loki.html
HANDLE BAR: Syncros Bulk 2014 Al • 31.8mm x w 720mm x r 20mm
How easy is it to trim them down or am I better just buying some narrower handlebars?
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Comments
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Just need a pipe cutter from halfords or similar that does steel, or allloy depending what your bars are, measure where you want to cut them, then check it with your riding gear all in place to make sure, then cut using said tool.
Or a hacksaw and a pipe cutting guide.
When you say too wide, do you mean for your liking or hitting obstacles?0 -
Hello mate easy! I love riding with thin bars so I cut my MTB bars down Easton EA70 monkey bars, just get a decent hacksaw blade in your hacksaw and go for it
The top tip is to move your brake levers and gears in first and try riding like it then cut if happy0 -
Quick and tidy job with a pipe cutter and a bit of emery cloth to finish0
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Bit of both...can't get between trees grouped closely together and I also find that tehe slightest movement on those wide handlebards turns the bike too wildly. I'm guessing narrower bars should help sort out both?0
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ross_mcculloch wrote:Bit of both...can't get between trees grouped closely together and I also find that tehe slightest movement on those wide handlebards turns the bike too wildly. I'm guessing narrower bars should help sort out both?
If you cut your handlebars down your bike's handling will become MORE twitchy, ie a smaller movement will have a bigger effect on the amount the front wheel moves.0 -
I've found my riding a bit more awkward since having the wider bars...perhaps it's just me!0
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All personal preference! Like lawl says above, try moving your controls/grips inboard a bit and see how you get on. You may also find that a slightly longer stem will slow the handling down as well.
Ultimately, if youre used to and are more comfortable with a narrower bar then thats what you should go with :-)0 -
Try before you cut.
Cut with a plumber's pipecutter (from Wickes etc) rather than hacksaw.
File the cut ends smooth.
Consider taking a wee bit off first and a more extreme cut later- the handling gets twitchy.Commute: Langster -Singlecross - Brompton S2-LX
Road: 95 Trek 5500 -Look 695 Aerolight eTap - Boardman TTe eTap
Offroad: Pace RC200 - Dawes Kickback 2 tandem - Tricross - Boardman CXR9.8 - Ridley x-fire0 -
ross_mcculloch wrote:How easy is it to trim them down or am I better just buying some narrower handlebars?
As for the 'best' width, I have some 710 bars on my Rize and I've clipped more than a few trees, but even so I sometimes find myself riding with my hands on the end of the grips. At the other end of the scale, I once cut a 620 flat bar down to 580 and that was fine. As said above, it's all down to personal preference. A wide bar opens your chest more and seems to improve breathing but it can make the bike feel like a barge in the twisties.0 -
.blitz wrote:As said above, it's all down to personal preference. A wide bar opens your chest more and seems to improve breathing but it can make the bike feel like a barge in the twisties.
That's true, I actually like the wide bars on big open sections and downhill but in the twisty narrow trails it can be a pest...decisions, decisions!0 -
ross_mcculloch wrote:.blitz wrote:As said above, it's all down to personal preference. A wide bar opens your chest more and seems to improve breathing but it can make the bike feel like a barge in the twisties.
That's true, I actually like the wide bars on big open sections and downhill but in the twisty narrow trails it can be a pest...decisions, decisions!
Sooner someone invents adjustible handlebars the better.Speed is life0