Replacing pedals

mikeyboy12345

Right...this is seriously embarrassing, cuz I feel as though I've just failed some sort of test of manhood...but how on earth are you supposed to get the pedals off the cranks?!

I don't recall any drama when I fitted the pedals to the bike in the first place - screwed them in finger tight and then nipped up with a 15mm spanner - so why won't they come undone?! I've tried WD40 to loosen it, etc, but they just won't shift. Is there some secret technique to this job? The brute force and ignorance approach hasn't worked: I'm plenty ignorant but the brute force is somewhat lacking.

Please save me from having to get my LBS to sort this for me (but they are handy, only 100yds from work ). The pedals have only been on for 3 months, but I don't want to do anything silly like stripping the crank threads as I have a 100 mile ride on Sunday.

Any advice?! I can't believe I can't manage this :oops:

redddraggon

Did you grease the pedal threads originally?

Stuck on a Giant

The usual comments are:

Are you undoing them the right way - remember the non-drive crank has reversed thread.
Get a longer spanner
Try a blowtorch on the threads - carefully.
Take to your LBS

Good luck.

bobpzero

sorry quick question to redddraggon. i have finishline ceramic grease and rock n roll super web grease. which one would be best to use on the spindle screw threads?

mikeyboy12345 what are the pedals? for my speedplay zeros pedals i use a offset pedal wrench. my look keos i have to use a 8mm allen key. well slightly apart from the usual comments you may have overtightend the pedal spindles. if you dont have a longer wrench for a good bit of leverage i would encourage you to take it to the lbs as long as you can trust the guys who work there.

shaw8670

I take it you know the left screws off clockwise and the right anti clockwise?

Soul Boy

I usually turn my bike upside down, straddle the down tube facing the pedals, then both unscrew with a downward montion....well it works for me. :?

Oh, and I always use a dab of regular grease on the threads.

balthazar

As long as you're turning them the right way, you just need more brute force. Extend the spanner with a piece of steel tube (think laterally: any old garden tools in the shed with long steel handles?), or hitting the spanner with a rubber hammer can help start it off. No matter what you do , you won't strip the thread – at worst you could damage the spanner flats on the pedals if the spanner slips. If that happens, you always have the hex socket which could be attacked with an impact wrench...

mikeyboy12345

Cheers for the replies! I did grease the threads before I installed the pedals (just used regular grease, nowt fancy), but I'm surprised the pedals are as tight as they are, given that I didn't use a lot of force when I originally put them on. I guess they must just naturally tighten in use.

Sounds like more brute force is needed! The only steel tubes I can find (for a bit more leverage) are the chrome-plated legs on my dining table. Had the table for over 2 years and using it to sort my bike will be only the second time I've ever used it

I don't like the sound of the blowtorch option - my car caught fire last night and I don't want my bike going the same way

El Gordo

Does the apply heat technique ever actually work? I've heard it suggested many times but wonder if it's really any good. I tried it once, with a blowtorch on a stripped square taper crank and it did nothing at all.

For your pedals a 12" spanner and a mallet is probably your best bet.

ride_whenever

heat works well but the trick is to heat it up pretty rapidly so the crank warms but the spindle doesnt, otherwise it just gets tighter as the steel expands more.


A hot kettle is often enough.


On the tightness side, as you pedal they will slowly tighten a bit more.

sicknote

Heat does work as it was the only way I could get one off my bike that someone had glued with super glue :roll:

Had to use more than a kettle

Also used the same trick at work all the time to get screws out.

Anonymous

mikeyboy12345 wrote:

Cheers for the replies! I did grease the threads before I installed the pedals (just used regular grease, nowt fancy), but I'm surprised the pedals are as tight as they are, given that I didn't use a lot of force when I originally put them on. I guess they must just naturally tighten in use.

Sounds like more brute force is needed! The only steel tubes I can find (for a bit more leverage) are the chrome-plated legs on my dining table. Had the table for over 2 years and using it to sort my bike will be only the second time I've ever used it

I don't like the sound of the blowtorch option - my car caught fire last night and I don't want my bike going the same way

You sound dead lucky. Hope you get your car/pedals sorted.

skinson

heat works well but the trick is to heat it up pretty rapidly so the crank warms but the spindle doesnt, otherwise it just gets tighter as the steel expands more.

Well I've never had that problem? Seeing as aluminium expands at nearly twice the rate of steel!!
You'll find it better to heat the lower or middle of the crank to ensure the axle heats up very little in relation to the crank.
Dave

redddraggon

mikeyboy12345 wrote:

Cheers for the replies! I did grease the threads before I installed the pedals (just used regular grease, nowt fancy)

As long as it's grease, any old grease will do. TBH I'm surprised that your pedals have seized considering you greased them - I've only ever had pedals seize on me when I've been lazy and not used grease. I guess you're just an unlucky fella.

Soni

I can sympathise with you mate, and if it makes you feel any better, i experienced severe hasle AND PAIN the other evening trying to remove my clipless pedals the other evening....

They were starting to creek, this happens every couple of months, so i remove them, regrease, and refit, to keep the bike nice and quiet.

However, Tuesday evening, i put the bike in the workshop stand, took the spanner to the pedals, and i am aware of the reverse thread on the left hand side of the bike, however they were on their so god damn tight, that i had to place so much pressure on the spanner that when the nut gave my wrist went flying into the large chain ring and i now have a massive 4" gash along my wrist and veins....and boy did it bleed!! It looks like a failed suicide attempt! :evil:

To help you and others, this is my advise:-

IF YOU ARE NOT ALLREADY AWARE, BOTH SIDES OF THE BIKE PEDALS ARE REMOVED BY TURNING THE SPANNER TOWARDS THE REAR OF THE BIKE - THIS WILL REMOVE THE NEED TO TRY AND REMEMBER WHICH SIDE HAS THE REVERSE THREAD!

ALSO - MOST IMPORTANTLY - PLACE THE CHAIN ON THE LARGE CHAINRING BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE DRIVE SIDE PEDAL! THIS WILL GUARD YOUR WRIST FROM THE DANGEROUS CHAINRING!

bobtravers

Soni wrote:

However, Tuesday evening, i put the bike in the workshop stand, took the spanner to the pedals, and i am aware of the reverse thread on the left hand side of the bike, however they were on their so god damn tight, that i had to place so much pressure on the spanner that when the nut gave my wrist went flying into the large chain ring and i now have a massive 4" gash along my wrist and veins....and boy did it bleed!! It looks like a failed suicide attempt! :evil:

Pretty dangerous guy!!

If you have trouble, put the spanner on the pedal, and use a mallet. The blow of the mallet will break the seize much better than trying it with hands... with less chances to hurt yourself... Another way is do dismantle cranks, and put your spanner or Allen key in a vise, and then use leverage to remove pedal.. Don't forget to turn on the right side!!

You can also put a steel tube onto your spanner, or use a second spanner to give you some leverage...

Monty Dog

Firstly, you need a decent length of wrench i.e. 12 inches, a small spanner doesn't exert enough leverage. The safest technique is to stand astride the rear wheel - crank facing forward and pedal wrench in-line with crank. Put foot on pedal and press whilst pulling up on the wrench two-handed. Alternatively, place crank facing horizontally forward and position wrench on spindle facing back i.e. 2 o'clock - strike the wrench firmly down with a mallet, this should 'crack' the join. BTW heat doesn't work on a carbon crank, but it could go into an interesting shape!

hopper1

+1 for correct tool choice! :evil:
Using cheater pipes, extending the length with another spanner, etc, will possibly lead to injury of some description, or equipment damage.
I have seen so many injuries caused by incorrect tool choice, or even hand made tools and 'Afro Engineering'.... :evil: :evil:

Gets off box and walks away...