Wheels and rider weight

beefcake2
beefcake2 Posts: 157
edited August 2009 in Road beginners
Hello

Just a quick question. What sort of wheels should I be looking at if I am a heavier rider? My current bike has the standard 105 wheels/hubs that it came with and I want to upgrade them. I have found these and think they are a good upgrade but am worried that I may be too heavy:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=23222

Cheers

Beefcake2

Comments

  • jthef
    jthef Posts: 226
    Hi Beefcake2
    I had some Mavic askum on my Ribble and they have not fared too well.
    Front still going, but the back I have gone threw 2 in 6000 miles, 18 months.
    I do ride all year and most weathers.
    So earlier this year I got Paul Hewitt to make me a new back wheel with the spec that it should last several years with a 15 stone fat bloke on it who some times has panier's on.
    So far in 3 months not touched the wheel (but I did not touch the mavics until they started to fail). cost me £200 but could of used a cheaper hub and saved £60.
    If you are a similar weight it might be worth having one made.

    Jthef
  • brownbosh
    brownbosh Posts: 602
    Hand builds. Kyseriums are like cheese if you are really heavy. I was very n early 20 stone now just under 15 and my racing,training, single speed and cross wheels (with the exception of my TT carbon hoops) are all handbuilt. They can still get them pretty light. Hope pro race 3 hubs, double butted sapim or dt spokes and a mavic open pro 36 hole rim (28 or 32 front) will come in lighter than those kyseriums and will stay straight and can be made on 6 or 7 colours for about £330 pair. Of course a pair of 36 spoke hoops can be built from about £130 for modern 105. If you are up near the 20 stone mark my first pair were built with cxp 33 rims and were a little more rigid. It depends how heavy you mean!!???
  • peanut1978
    peanut1978 Posts: 1,031
    why would you use a wheelset with "aero spokes" if you are heavy and using panniers?
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    105 hubs have an excellent reputation. Why would you want to replace them (unless you've actually damaged the wheels)?
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Stone Glider
    Stone Glider Posts: 1,227
    The heaviest component on any bike is the rider.

    If you are of a normal build, strngth is far more important than weight. Go strong!

    When you are weighing 75 to 80 kilograms then acquire the light stuff. You can relax.
    The older I get the faster I was
  • geoff_ss
    geoff_ss Posts: 1,201
    Standard 105 hubs coupled to Mavic Open Pro rims properly built with top quality (DT) spokes should be fine. I would go with 36 spokes on the back at least - the front isn't so important. I think the ones I built cost about £150 for the bits.

    I've never broken a spoke on a 36 spoke front wheel of a touring tandem even when camping with front panniers. Similarly I've never found more than 40 spokes necessary at the rear and a fully laden tandem will be putting a lot more load on its wheels than you are.

    I build all my own wheels. I'm a bit slow but my wheels seem to work OK.

    Geoff
    Old cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster
  • I used to be 100kgs (220lbs)
    Used the wheels you have linked for over a year with no issues at all.
    Hope that helps. :wink:
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    Decent handbuilts will be fine, 32 spokes will be more than adequate.