Newbie Question on Headset spacers...

jos2thehua
jos2thehua Posts: 76
edited July 2009 in Workshop
Hello everyone, I'm not so new to these forums but not really the most talkative type either. However, I got into road cycling about seven months ago after I purchased an entry level bike for a Christmas gift to myself.

Recently, I purchased both clip-less pedals and shoes to allow for more efficient power transfer and pedal efficiency over old fashioned toe-clips. When I went to get them fitted at my local bicycle store the manager went over some questions about my riding style and determined that I ride aggressively in the saddle. He then went on to recommend that I take out a few headset spacers (maybe two) in order to have a more aggressive riding position.

First, I would like to know the overall benefits of lowering the headset by taking out the spacers. Does this give me a more aero position that helps me on the flats but hurts me on the hills or does it not affect climbing at all?

Also, how simple is it to take out the headset spacers? I'm not sure if the bike manager meant "I" should consider taking them out or if I should bring the bike back into the shop for him to do it. I would like to do it on my own if at all possible but if it's too complicated I understand. I just would rather not have the hassle of taking my bike back in when I could just grab some allen keys and go to work. However, I don't want to screw up the fitting on my bike in any way because that cost $60 at my shop to be fitted.

P.S. I'll also provide a picture of what I'm talking about even though you guys probably already know...

hsetspacer.jpg

Thank you!

-Josh M. Holloway

Comments

  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    Remove the spacers one at a time, it is best not to make too drastic a positional change in one go.

    It is an easy job to do. First remove the top bolt and cap, then mark a centre line on the steerer with a pencil through the slot in the stem in order to quickly line it up properly when you refit. Then undo the two bolts on the stem and remove the stem and bar assembly, take a spacer out and replace the stem, fitting the same spacer back on top of the stem. Line the pencil mark up with the slot on the stem, replace the top cap and bolt and carefully tighten it down until there is no play in the headset when you rock the bike back and forth with the brake on. I always give an extra 1/8 of a turn to make sure, it will still be smooth turning without binding. Then retighten the stem bolts and see how the bike feels with the new position.
  • jos2thehua
    jos2thehua Posts: 76
    Thank you very much for the help. Very clear and well detailed. I'm about to go do it.

    -Josh M. Holloway
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    Yip, easy job. I have just done exactly the same thing in a pre emptive strike to try and get more aero for time trialing, I can't afford a specific TT bike.

    I felt much faster with the new position, but that was probably down to knowing that I was now lower on the bike, as suggested on here. Not sure it will give a massive aero advantage, but it will help a wee bit I would think. Didn't feel any difference climbing, but I'm usually pretty low on the tops when putting in a big effort anyway, arms bent.
  • muchalls
    muchalls Posts: 87
    Hmmmm, looks suspiciously like my Specialized Allez front end ;-)

    Note also you can alter the angle of the stem on the forks to angle it up or down: either by flipping the stem (you will of course need to undo the clamp on the handlebars to do this) and/or rotating the metal shim that fits over the fork steerer. From the look of it though you already have the stem in a 'downwards' angle.

    A small aside: does anyone know if you can get a shorter conical spacer?