upgrade v buy & hard v soft
fleecy
Posts: 4
Hey guys and gals 
I know this is probably the most asked question, and it might be an idea to add to your reviews whether a bike is worth upgrading or not. Anyway, to my story ... are you sitting comfortably?
I have an GT Avalanche 1.0 08 - bought it as the best 500 quid bike and have thrashed it on the Whinlatter Altura and all around the lakes. Now the great guys at Whinlatter bike shop have told me brakes, shocks and drivetrain is going need some serious cash spent on it.
So my question is, is the frame good enough for me to upgrade, a few hundred on forks, more on brakes, more drivetrain etc over the next year OR it is better to just put all that money into a bucket and get a new bike at about 800-1000 UKP?
That does roll into another question I have, and again its a big one - Hard V Soft? I do a lot of XC, trail riding and enjoy single track but haven't really got the point of seeking out the black parts of runs, flying 20 feet in the air etc. The advice I've had is go for a decent hard tail, but then I get into the shop and those lovely pieces of full sus engineering just call out to me, and I know I am going to start doing harder, more challenging DH stuff - the obvious solution is 2 bikes but money isn't going to allow that. Questions I have are things such as how good are rear suss lock outs, what are the weight differentials, do all full suss bikes give you the nodding donkey when trying to belt it along flats/roads etc etc etc?
could the MBUK boys and girls do a big article where they take a variety of runs - serious DH, Single Track, Trail etc and apply one or two hard and soft tails and give the pros and cons of each. Would be really helpful
cheers
I know this is probably the most asked question, and it might be an idea to add to your reviews whether a bike is worth upgrading or not. Anyway, to my story ... are you sitting comfortably?
I have an GT Avalanche 1.0 08 - bought it as the best 500 quid bike and have thrashed it on the Whinlatter Altura and all around the lakes. Now the great guys at Whinlatter bike shop have told me brakes, shocks and drivetrain is going need some serious cash spent on it.
So my question is, is the frame good enough for me to upgrade, a few hundred on forks, more on brakes, more drivetrain etc over the next year OR it is better to just put all that money into a bucket and get a new bike at about 800-1000 UKP?
That does roll into another question I have, and again its a big one - Hard V Soft? I do a lot of XC, trail riding and enjoy single track but haven't really got the point of seeking out the black parts of runs, flying 20 feet in the air etc. The advice I've had is go for a decent hard tail, but then I get into the shop and those lovely pieces of full sus engineering just call out to me, and I know I am going to start doing harder, more challenging DH stuff - the obvious solution is 2 bikes but money isn't going to allow that. Questions I have are things such as how good are rear suss lock outs, what are the weight differentials, do all full suss bikes give you the nodding donkey when trying to belt it along flats/roads etc etc etc?
could the MBUK boys and girls do a big article where they take a variety of runs - serious DH, Single Track, Trail etc and apply one or two hard and soft tails and give the pros and cons of each. Would be really helpful
cheers
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Comments
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Most tests do encompass a variety of riding and will be commented on.
The frame is capable: tough, not that light and best suited to a 100-130mm fork. Why do the guys at Whinlatter say that? Are the parts worn out?0 -
yes, they say they are pretty much worn out. They still respond but they are not as smooth as they used to be. I know a step up in forks would cost a few hundred but just wondered whether it was worth putting them on the frame or getting a new bike with the better forks already on it.0
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Good forks can be got from jut 100 quid on the shape of the Tora, or a Recon for a little more if you want to save some weight.
Brakes probably just need new pads and a bleed - drivetrain (cassette, cables, cranks, chain) should be less than 100 quid.
It is a capable bike. OK, 1000 quid new bike maybe a bit lighter and better specced, but I think what you have has life left in it!0
