Brake pad contamination? Any cures?

badgerman26
badgerman26 Posts: 125
edited November 2009 in MTB workshop & tech
So got a spesh fsr xc pro last month and felt the avid juicies were soft, but thought they needed bedding in. Still worse than my v brakes so took them for a bleed.

They needed it, but they guy said that the pads were contaminated and needed new ones.

:shock:

£30 for new ones after prob 6 rides!!

Anything I can do to decontaminate or is it new pads. He recs its the oil on the roads... hardly been on roads, some gt85 may splashed back, but not loads is it that a potent pad buster?

Cheers
«1

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    new pads and clean the rotor with IPA.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • badgerman26
    badgerman26 Posts: 125
    gutted after so little riding there like china plates...

    Whats IPA?

    How easy are pads to change?
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    Do a search on the forum there are many threads about possible fixes for contaminated pads.

    IPA is short for Isopropyl alcohol, used as a cleaning solvent.

    Pads are usually easy to change but depends on the brake. I think Avid have the instruction manuals on their website have a look on there for instructions to change pads.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    jairaj wrote:
    Do a search on the forum there are many threads about possible fixes for contaminated pads.

    and i have tested most of them and nothing beats new pads.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    yeah you're correct they won't be back to 100% but almost. If you really are on a budget or are getting regular contamination from the road (like me) its not a bad option but new pads will always be the best option.
  • badgerman26
    badgerman26 Posts: 125
    OK thanks for advice, didnt realise they were so fragile.

    So what is the best decontamination in your opinions?
  • you could try getting some cheaper pads, try going to superstar components - I have used their sintered pads in my xt 770's with no problems, at at about £25 for 2 pair it is cheaper than £30 for one pair!
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    there are specific brake pads cleaners available, (i think muc off do one). You just spray the pads and give them a scrub. People have reported good results with this.

    Personally I hold the pads over a gas hob with tongs or pilers for about 5 mins. You can see the the crap bubbling out and burning away. You may want to be careful and take care not to inhale the flumes, they're prob not very good for you.

    On the replacement pads I use Superstar Pads. I have Shimano XT brakes and the original pads contaminated very quickly and I replaced them with these. I didn't notice any difference from when the original pads were good but then didn't have a lot of experience with them either. A mate of mine swears by the more expensive brand names tho.
  • JxL
    JxL Posts: 383
    I have some superstar pads on front (sintered) and they started making a REALLY loud high pitch squeeking noise that can be heard from miles... I take it they are contaminated? thanks
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    JxL wrote:
    I have some superstar pads on front (sintered) and they started making a REALLY loud high pitch squeeking noise that can be heard from miles... I take it they are contaminated? thanks

    yup this is the first sign, then reduced braking performance, followed by bugger all braking power and me almost riding into my garage door while trying to do a casual stop :oops:

    *** edit: I think wrapped rotors can also cause squealing noises too check for that first
  • jairaj wrote:
    JxL wrote:

    *** edit: I think wrapped rotors can also cause squealing noises too check for that first
    Im sure he meant warped not wrapped !
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    I used superstar pads once and they fell apart so not reccommended by me.

    My brakes started screeching like a stuck pig but only after I put a new rotor on so it`s not always the pads that are the problem.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    Im sure he meant warped not wrapped !

    :oops: sorry, thanks for the correction
  • Graydawg
    Graydawg Posts: 673
    My Brakes shudder / vibrate under braking ...

    think the pads are glazed?
    I've checked the headset and the bolts holding the caliper on and all look fine....
    Any suggestions?

    If i clean the pads with a bit of sandpaper and wipe the discs with IPA will this do the trick do you think?

    TIA!
    It's been a while...
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    My first check would be for a bent rotor. I don't think glazed pads cause vibration?

    How much is the shuddering / vibration? A little feedback from the brakes is normal.
  • Graydawg
    Graydawg Posts: 673
    It's enough to feel it through the bars.... and it make a squeaky vibrating noise too...

    The rotors look perfectly straight visually.... that is!
    It's been a while...
  • canada16
    canada16 Posts: 2,360
    Would putting them on a gas stove be ok as I do this sometimes and it seems to solve the problem.

    But dont want them cracking or anything.

    Other than that. 5.00 from superstar, throw the old ones away
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    Canada16

    thats what I do and seems to be ok. I only use a small flame and mainly apply heat to the metal backing plate. also I only keep heating until all the contaminants have boiled off and then only wait a min or two before removing from the heat and always leave to cool down naturally not under cold water or anything.
  • JxL
    JxL Posts: 383
    jairaj wrote:
    JxL wrote:

    *** edit: I think wrapped rotors can also cause squealing noises too check for that first
    Im sure he meant warped not wrapped !

    The rotor should be fine, it was brand new when I put the pads on! It is also completely straight.

    I get some vibration on the rear wheel when braking heavily (before the wheels lock out). It does not squeek as much as the front though.

    /me off to the shed
  • Graydawg
    Graydawg Posts: 673
    FYI took my pads off the front caliper, and roughened them up with a sanding block. just took the shine off the pads.

    Put them back on and perfect!!! No more vibrations! :o

    can't believe its something that simple that has fixed my problem!! Normally it costs a fortune to fix!

    Delighted!
    It's been a while...
  • JxL
    JxL Posts: 383
    Also had a go at my front pads... Took them off, used sand paper, put under a gas fire until all contaminators burned off, after cooled down sprayed with disc cleaner, sand paper again, disc cleaner and put them back into callipers :)

    front brake is much better now, no squeeks!
  • i've been running shimano brakes for 3 years noww. i have them servicesd every spring and autumn and haven't had any problems until recently when purchasing some pads i have used for time and memorial.
    initially i suffered a down turn in performance which would rectify after riding down a big ass hill naer my flat. they squeeled like a trapped cat and shuddered to a ungracfull stop. had them replaced by the shop, all was fine for a week or two then it happened again.

    when i aws in the shop for the third lot being fit the mechanic showed me the pads and he was chipping it away with his thumb nails, there was no contamination, the only thing there was was confusion. anyhoo, they changed them for the XTR version so lets see how these bad bois go.

    anyone had similar problems???
  • I also have cured my pads in a similar manner....I put the flame on the actual friction material itself and was fine.
    However it was mentioned to me by nicklouise that on some pads you can melt the glue that holds the friction material to the pad!
    this is why its best where possible to replace them, however the repair does work!
    Unlike my credit card im currently carrying a low level of interest- Peter Griffin


    Saracen Trace 1
  • Use very fine file, this works for me and takes of the glaze.
    2010 Trek Fuel EX8
    2009 Rockhopper Comp.
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    Anything I can do to decontaminate or is it new pads

    Bung 'em in the oven.

    Wait until your mum/wife/girlfriend/boyfriend/whatever has finsihed cooking your tea and turned the oven OFF...then sling the pads in the bottom.

    Shut the door then let the oven cool right down. Bingo, jobs a good 'un.

    Cue hordes of whinging mewling marketing-speak regurgitating knobs saying "eeeuuh, you can't do that, it will degrade the pads and your brakes will fail and you'll fall off and graze your knees and the dead will rise from the grave and the skies will turn to blood and then you'll DIE!!!" etc......
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I thought my chips were a bit hard last time...
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    And that's another thing, what hell are OVEN chips??? :evil:

    THERE'S NO SUCH THING!!!

    Chips are cooked in beef dripping. If it isn't soaked in saturated fat, it isn't a chip, it's a chip shaped object.

    Oven chips indeed. Pffft.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
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  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Yeah, I tell my mum that! I do like dripping fried chips!

    Copaslip tastes nasty anyway and gives you lead poisoning.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    ENTER THE CYNIC...

    if you take your bike to a shop with a limited understanding of the concept of integrity, and say "The brakes are a but squishy", there's always a chance that they spend 5 minutes bleeding them back to perfection then say "Also you need new pads, that'll be £X plus £10 fitting" Pad contamination from road oil sounds suspiciously like complete balls to me tbh.

    Not to say that your shop is crooked, but some are.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    Northwind wrote:
    ENTER THE CYNIC...

    if you take your bike to a shop with a limited understanding of the concept of integrity, and say "The brakes are a but squishy", there's always a chance that they spend 5 minutes bleeding them back to perfection then say "Also you need new pads, that'll be £X plus £10 fitting" Pad contamination from road oil sounds suspiciously like complete balls to me tbh.

    Not to say that your shop is crooked, but some are.

    +1 to that.. To be fair no different to a garage, Tyre shop etc. one of my cars has been getting a "requirement" for a new exhaust for over 4 years from one dealer. I keep saying I'll replace it when it fails the MOT. given its over 1,500 quid to replace one side

    Nothing wrong with contaminated pads anyway. If your brakes are soft its not contamination its air/set-up clamp 'em up over night and see how they are in the morning.. Clean the rotors with a bit of soapy water and a scoarer.. remove pads and clean brake with brake cleaner and if required a bit of soapy water on the pads and see how you get on.

    Its too early in my use of Superstar for me to recommend them, but they have to be more than twice as worse than avid before its not worth it as you can get 4 sets for 20 quid.