Tyres...please explain?

li
li Posts: 25
edited April 2009 in MTB buying advice
Hi
Bought a commie 553 and find the rear tyre a little scary where i ride (farm tracks/mud/dh etc) the tyre is a Hutchinson python 2.00 and the front a Hutchinson barracuda 2.1.
Was thinking of changing the rear tyre for something wider/more grip?
As the bike came with a wider front tyre than the rear,would fitting a wider rear tyre than the front be a problem? (i'm now confused :idea: ) or should i change both?
I would also like someone to explain to me all the the terminology associated with tyres (60a/folding etc).

Thanks

btw i'm loving mtb'in! :D

Comments

  • Airienteer
    Airienteer Posts: 695
    You'll be fine with a wider rear than front. The number refers to the compund of they tyre, the lower the number the stickier but will wear quicker. Folded literally means the tyre comes folded in comparison to threaded, comes as a hoop.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Folding bead (kevlar) usually a lot lighter too - worth the extra.

    Many people run wider fronts though, as front end slides are harder to control.
  • li
    li Posts: 25
    Many thanks guys..thanks for the help
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    Li wrote:
    Hi
    Bought a commie 553 and find the rear tyre a little scary where i ride (farm tracks/mud/dh etc) the tyre is a Hutchinson python 2.00 and the front a Hutchinson barracuda 2.1.
    Was thinking of changing the rear tyre for something wider/more grip?
    As the bike came with a wider front tyre than the rear,would fitting a wider rear tyre than the front be a problem? (i'm now confused :idea: ) or should i change both?
    I would also like someone to explain to me all the the terminology associated with tyres (60a/folding etc)

    Right, first off - sizes

    You'll notice written somewhere on the tyre something like, "26 x 2.0". The "26" is the nominal diameter of the wheel that the tyre is designed to fit, in inches. The "2.0" is the nominal width, again in inches.

    Note that I say nominal - the actual, physical size of the tyre varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even within a manufacturer's range. So one manufacturer's 26 x 2.0 may not be EXACTLY the same as another manufacturers. But what is important is that the two are interchangeable. If the bike came with Hutchinson tyres, you can safely use Kenda, Maxxis, whatever.

    Next up, you may see a tyre described as "single ply" or "double ply". Double-ply tyres have double-thickness sidewalls. This makes them VERY tough and also means they can be run at lower pressures for more grip. But the trade-off is that they weigh a tonne - they're great for downhill and freeride duties, but not so much fun for general use!!

    Folding and wire bead - the bead is the bit that keeps the tyre on the rim. Wire beaded tyres have a wire cable running around the raw edge. The tyre keeps it's shape even when it is off the rim. A folding tyre has a kevlar or aramid cord instead of the wire, and can be folded for storage or carrying. Folding tyres are generally lighter than non-folding (a good thing) but are usually more expensive (a bad thing).

    42a, 60a, etc - this refers to the shore rating of the rubber used for the tread. The shore rating is a measure of how hard the rubber is - the lower the number, the softer the rubber. This usually means more grip at the expense of durability and higher rolling resistance. To confuse things, some manufacturers use a double-compound tread with hard rubber in the centre (for lower rolling resistance) and soft rubber on the shoulders (more grip when banked over). Maxxis and Kenda confuse the issue by using trade names for different shore ratings - for example Maxxis use Super Tacky for 42a and Maxxpro for 60a.

    If you're going to use different width tyres, it is more common practice to put the wider one on the front for more "grab" and the narrower one on the rear. As Supersonic says, a rear while slide is far easier to control than a front wheel slide!!
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  • li
    li Posts: 25
    Mr Hill

    I live in Rossendale,so, next time i'm out i'll buy you and pint (or a puncture repair kit?)
    :D
    Many thanks
  • pilsburypie
    pilsburypie Posts: 891
    dave_hill wrote:

    Right, first off - sizes

    You'll notice written somewhere on the tyre something like, "26 x 2.0". The "26" is the nominal diameter of the wheel that the tyre is designed to fit, in inches. The "2.0" is the nominal width, again in inches.

    Note that I say nominal - the actual, physical size of the tyre varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even within a manufacturer's range. So one manufacturer's 26 x 2.0 may not be EXACTLY the same as another manufacturers. But what is important is that the two are interchangeable. If the bike came with Hutchinson tyres, you can safely use Kenda, Maxxis, whatever.

    Next up, you may see a tyre described as "single ply" or "double ply". Double-ply tyres have double-thickness sidewalls. This makes them VERY tough and also means they can be run at lower pressures for more grip. But the trade-off is that they weigh a tonne - they're great for downhill and freeride duties, but not so much fun for general use!!

    Folding and wire bead - the bead is the bit that keeps the tyre on the rim. Wire beaded tyres have a wire cable running around the raw edge. The tyre keeps it's shape even when it is off the rim. A folding tyre has a kevlar or aramid cord instead of the wire, and can be folded for storage or carrying. Folding tyres are generally lighter than non-folding (a good thing) but are usually more expensive (a bad thing).

    42a, 60a, etc - this refers to the shore rating of the rubber used for the tread. The shore rating is a measure of how hard the rubber is - the lower the number, the softer the rubber. This usually means more grip at the expense of durability and higher rolling resistance. To confuse things, some manufacturers use a double-compound tread with hard rubber in the centre (for lower rolling resistance) and soft rubber on the shoulders (more grip when banked over). Maxxis and Kenda confuse the issue by using trade names for different shore ratings - for example Maxxis use Super Tacky for 42a and Maxxpro for 60a.

    If you're going to use different width tyres, it is more common practice to put the wider one on the front for more "grab" and the narrower one on the rear. As Supersonic says, a rear while slide is far easier to control than a front wheel slide!!
    What I was going to say :roll:
  • Cheaper logical option, stick your front on the back, buy a 2.3 for the front problem solved ! Like ultrasonic and dave hill say its better to run wider tyres on the front or both the same.
  • Excuse me, I had some of the same questions, and have read the thread through.
    Regarding the folding/non-folding tyres, what is the most "normal" to use? The price difference isn't that big, but there must some more pros/cons?

    I am just about to buy new tyres (just extras), and was thinking about the non-folding.

    :wink:
    Power to the Princess and her Canyon 9.0
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    Hej and Welcome.

    there is no normal.
    the wired (non Folding) are cheaper and tend to be heavier and are normally the type fitted by the factory.


    Folding. Lighter easier to store/carry. Lighter.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • nicklouse wrote:
    Hej and Welcome.

    there is no normal.
    the wired (non Folding) are cheaper and tend to be heavier and are normally the type fitted by the factory.


    Folding. Lighter easier to store/carry. Lighter.

    Super, tack så mycket :wink:
    Power to the Princess and her Canyon 9.0