Ultra Torque BB/Cranks quite stiff

option_click
Posts: 169
Hi all,
I started to build up my new bike over the weekend, and it's the first time that I've dealt with UltraTorque.
Everything fitted together very easily (using the appropriate Campag tools), and I made sure not to over-tighten the main spindle, however, the cranks are very reluctant to spin. When turning the cranks, there is definitely some resistance, similar to when a brake block is touching a rim and slowing it.
So, my question is, 'is this a common issue' Any tips to where the problem might lie?
thanks in advance.
I started to build up my new bike over the weekend, and it's the first time that I've dealt with UltraTorque.
Everything fitted together very easily (using the appropriate Campag tools), and I made sure not to over-tighten the main spindle, however, the cranks are very reluctant to spin. When turning the cranks, there is definitely some resistance, similar to when a brake block is touching a rim and slowing it.
So, my question is, 'is this a common issue' Any tips to where the problem might lie?
thanks in advance.
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Comments
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Don't want to state the obvious, but did you remember to put the washer in the bearing cup?0
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The 'wavy' washer into the left-hand cup?
Yup, that's in there.0 -
Option Click wrote:I made sure not to over-tighten the main spindle
TBH with Ultratorque you need to make sure that the central bolt is relatively high torqued, you'd have to be really really trying to over torque it.0 -
There is resistance in the bearing in all except the Super Record CULT type, as the grease provides a degree of pre-load. This resistance shouldn't be excessive though - if you spin the cranks, you should get 2 to 3 revs or so before they come to rest.
CULT bearings spin very freely as the special steels used in the bearing shells and the ceramic balls mean that the bearing can be run without grease.
You can't overtighten the bearing if your BB shell matches Campag's spec (67.2 - 70.8mm wide in the case of an English threaded BB, 69.2 - 70.8mm in the case of an Italian) and the cups are tightened all the way home against a correctly faced-off BB shell. The central bolt has no influence over how tight the bearing is at all. The take-up of end-float on the bearing is provided by the wavy washer mentioned in another response to the OP.
The central bolt in the Hirth joint has a tightening torque specified in the instructions at 42NM and you do need to respect this value - gross overtightening, whilst not likely, could conceivably cause failure of the bolt, undertightening may cause failure of the Hirth joint.Campagnolo Appointed Service and Warranty Centre for the UK.
Weldtech bicycle maintenance & reapir courses to industry recognised standards, for the trade and members of the public.0 -
Swapped my Ultratorque std back on for my compact yesterday.
Have to admit they don't spin quite as freely as an old square taper BB, think this is the same with most of the external bearing designs. Doesnt seem to make any noticeable difference when you're pedalling and you may find that once you've done a few miles on it and the grease has criculated around the bearings that it will feel like its freed up a bit.
Also found that after going out for 40 miles last night my BB was spinning a bit more freely than it was before.
As mentioned above I'd stick to the recommended bolt tension, too much and the bolt can be damaged, too little and the risk is the bolt can loosen and/or there is insufficient compression load at the interface of the spindle.0 -
Does anyone know the torque settings?0
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Does anyone know the torque settings?
Torque settings for what?0 -
See my post - 42NM.Campagnolo Appointed Service and Warranty Centre for the UK.
Weldtech bicycle maintenance & reapir courses to industry recognised standards, for the trade and members of the public.0