Radial truing

N4PALM
N4PALM Posts: 240
edited April 2009 in Workshop
I have a set of Shimano RS10 wheels, the bane of my life.

I have a problem with the rear, theres no reason for them to be as out of whack as much as they are. The only thing I can think is maybe they got wrecked by a pothole or something.

The rear gradually got more and more out of true til I took them to be re-trued at the LBS. They did the work and gave it back to me saying "Thats as good as they'll get with the low spoke count and all". They were still radially out of true and a very slight side wobble. I've also recently noticed one of the spokes is slightly bent. I wasnt impressed.

After riding a few more miles it started going out again. Yesterday I noticed it was quite bad so I figured I'd have a bash myself. I slackend all the spokes off and began to retension and retrue from scratch. I've never done this before and had to do it with an adjustable spanner (silly 4mm nipples) and brake blocks.

Anyway I got it virtually perfectly in true laterally but still cant get it radially in true. Theres a hell of a bump in it that just wont budge. So now I'm wondering if the rim is just b0rked, if both myself and my LBS are useless at wheel truing or if these dumb low spoke count wheels are worth their weight?

Comments

  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    Generally when I true rims, I aim for laterally true + even spoke tension.

    That gives you consistent braking and a stronger wheel than if you were to aim for laterally + radially true.

    keep in mind that it's IMPOSSIBLE to get all three right. Most people don't even notice a wheel that is out of true a few mm radially...
  • N4PALM
    N4PALM Posts: 240
    Thats interesting, I'm a perfectionist at times and so naturally I was expecting perfection to be achieveable. Having said that I dont really notice the wheel being radially out.

    Even spoke tension is another thing that I'm unsure of. Both when I got the wheel back from the LBS and now I've done it myself, none of the spokes ping the same tone. This to me says they are all tensioned differently, is this correct thinking?

    Of course I dont own a tensionmeter, the same as I dont own a dishing tool or a wheel jig.

    This RS10 set is a particularly cheap wheelset. I'm actually a little bit scared of them collapsing while I'm far from home, maybe thats paranoia. At this point I'm considering ditching them. Trouble is finding a wheelset that meets my standards for less than £200 is tricky, I dont have the money for a set of Ksyriums or the like. I'm considering open-pro/105.
  • derosa
    derosa Posts: 2,819
    A quality pair of handbuilts from a good builder will out perform 99.9% of factory built options at that price.

    Big H

    May the road rise up to meet you.
    May the wind always be at your back.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Sounds as though your LBS could do with a competent wheelbuilder. Faced with a similar problem and provided the rim's not bent, I'd loosen all the spokes and start again - counting the number of turns I give to each nipple means that they build-up straight from the start. De-stress the spokes and Loctite the nipples means they usually stay true for a long time.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    derosa wrote:
    A quality pair of handbuilts from a good builder will out perform 99.9% of factory built options at that price.

    Truth!!

    My Open Pro's where hand built and whilst the rims worn out after 3 or 4,000 miles the wheels never ever needed trueing, I reckon another month and my Aksiums will ne trueing, they are already more out of true than my Open Pro's ever where, tell ye not impressed.

    Allthough maybe thrashing it up swiss hill near Manchester regular might cause em to break? :lol:
  • N4PALM
    N4PALM Posts: 240
    Thats when I get scared of these RS-10. They've been creaking and pinging and flexing on climbs and going out of true. They make me nervous to put on the power.

    I can not think of any moment that I could have bent a spoke. Yet there is one. I've not crashed or anything.

    The hubs are fine, the usual shimano quality, but the spokes and the rim leave a bit to be desired. The front wheel feels well bendy when hammering out of the saddle. Whats more I weigh only 10.5 stone.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    How heavy are you?

    After less than 1000 miles I snapped a spoke on my RS-10's, lukilly at the end of a 160mile ride!

    I had an upgrade to Open Pro's, at first I was worring if the increased spoke count may reduce performance but I dont think it did. Did not look back after, great wheels apart from rims wearing pretty quickly (3000+ miles)
  • N4PALM
    N4PALM Posts: 240
    Even using 105 hubs and competition spokes, the open pro builds are lighter than the rs10 set. Use ultegra and revolutions spokes and its even lighter still.

    As I said I weigh 10.5 stone, tho when I started riding these RS10's I was 1-1.5 stone heavier. They went out of tru within 50 miles, lasted 960 miles and now I feel they have almost had it. I could be being paranoid, they'll probably last another 1000 miles but I'll be re-truing them every other ride.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Sell em or bin em.

    I'm going to be getting Open Pro's on Ultegra hubs next, maybe bladed spokes too if possible.
  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    It sounds like you don't have them tensioned enough... :wink: