Ground clearance when going up-hill?

Steve Legend
Steve Legend Posts: 87
edited March 2009 in MTB general
Ok, got myself a BeOne Nirvana 3.0 last year, been slowly upgrading stuff (brakes, handlebars etc) but one thing has come up a couple of times when riding...epecially in Cwmcarn. When I'm riding up-hill, with the front forks adjusted to least possible travel I find I'm often bottoming out the pedals on rocks/roots etc.

I have no problem with the bike down hill (so far) but this is bugging me. Never had this problem on my old hard tail Marin. Is there anything I can do to improve clearance? Maybe it's a problem with the frame, maybe my technique? This is my first full suspension and I have it pretty stiff on the rear, 140psi on average, when I sit on it it only moves a few mm.

Anyway, any suggestions? New to the forum, often read it but first post. Thanks.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Nope not much except for improve your peddling so as to not ground out.

    Or raise the fork back up again .....
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Dirtydog11
    Dirtydog11 Posts: 1,621
    Maybe some higher profile tyres would help.

    I ride a Kinesis Maxlight with quite a low bottom bracket and have had similar isues when running low profile tyres like Conti Vapors.

    Switching to some 2.3 tyres would give you a little more ground clearance.

    I run a 2.35 single ply high roller on the rear and a 2.35 single ply Minion on the front.
  • shorter cranks?
  • just out of interest... is that the reason for adjustable fork length?
    Personally i'd lock the fork out (if available) on climbs, and use the travel adjust for different terrain?
  • Raising the forks was my first thought but all I've ever read tells you to lower them but yeah, It makes almost 3cm difference.

    Tyres I didn't think of, got Panaracer 2.1's at the moment.

    And as for adjustable fork length. As far as I know you lower it for up-hill so weight is more over the front and you lock it too because you don't want to waste energy compressing forks up-hill (both I do) and you lengthen the travel for down-hill, weight more over the rear and adjust the compression depending on how soft you want it.

    I guess just keeping the travel high but still locked is all I can do and maybe look into bigger tyres. Don't fancy getting shorter cranks cos that sounds like more hard work when peddling...it's hard enough already up-hill! Heh!
  • snotty badger
    snotty badger Posts: 1,593
    I just leave my Pikes at full length- in fact I've never bothered locking them out yet either. I just sit on the saddle and spin up hill 98% of the time.
    At most I flick my rear shock onto ProPedal, but then I seem to forget to flick it back for the way back down :lol:

    Try leaving them at full length but locked out and see if you notice any real difference maybe?
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • Cheers for all the advice peps...being a newbie I thought I'd get ignored.

    ...One day I'll be able to afford a proper frame with better clearance...one day! :D