HELP! Can't undo Ultra Torque crank bolt
on-yer-bike
Posts: 2,974
I'm using the Campag hex tool to engage the bolt and a 17 mm car wheel nut wrench and I can't budge it. I'm assuming anti clockwise and I don't see anything in the Campag instructions to suggest otherwise. Any tips?
Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo
0
Comments
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if by "Campag hex tool" you mean a 10mm allen key, then it should come loose easily.
it is anti clockwise yes.
i dont use any campagnolo tools - just a 10 mm allen key0 -
gundersen wrote:if by "Campag hex tool" you mean a 10mm allen key, then it should come loose easily.
it is anti clockwise yes.
i dont use any campagnolo tools - just a 10 mm allen key
Yes he means the proper Campagnolo tool, allowing you to use a torque wrench. It's basically an extension.
If you shine a torch into the crank arm you should see a direction arrow printed on the bolt which shows you which way it tightens.
Did you prep the bolt with Loctite 222 when you installed it to prevent seizing (and coming loose in theory!)?0 -
magliaceleste wrote:gundersen wrote:if by "Campag hex tool" you mean a 10mm allen key, then it should come loose easily.
it is anti clockwise yes.
i dont use any campagnolo tools - just a 10 mm allen key
Yes he means the proper Campagnolo tool, allowing you to use a torque wrench. It's basically an extension.
If you shine a torch into the crank arm you should see a direction arrow printed on the bolt which shows you which way it tightens.
Did you prep the bolt with Loctite 222 when you installed it to prevent seizing (and coming loose in theory!)?
I didn't install it, Cycle Surgery did in October.Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo0 -
on-yer-bike wrote:magliaceleste wrote:gundersen wrote:if by "Campag hex tool" you mean a 10mm allen key, then it should come loose easily.
it is anti clockwise yes.
i dont use any campagnolo tools - just a 10 mm allen key
Yes he means the proper Campagnolo tool, allowing you to use a torque wrench. It's basically an extension.
If you shine a torch into the crank arm you should see a direction arrow printed on the bolt which shows you which way it tightens.
Did you prep the bolt with Loctite 222 when you installed it to prevent seizing (and coming loose in theory!)?
I didn't install it, Cycle Surgery did in October.
Then shove it up his ar$e after smearing it with Locktite.0 -
I've just removed my cranks this afternoon.
The 10mm Allen key bolt is not meant to "come loose easily", thats why the assembly torque is 31lbs ft.
I assembled mine myself using a torque wrench with the Campag tool and I still had a struggle to loosen the bolt ( anti-clockwise by the way). I used a socket set with very little play in it to loosen mine, perhaps a car type wheel nut wrench is not long enough in the handle. Can you get hold of an extending car wheel nut wrench? Hold the left hand crank against the chainstay and lever down with your wrench in the anticlockwise direction.
Hope this helps.
John.0 -
I had the same problem a few weeks ago. I could not get the bolt to budge at all.
In the end, I brought the frame into the house (warmer than the garage being the idea) and laid the frame on its side, drive side down. I then sprayed GT85 onto and around the bolt. By the time I had finished, the end of the bolt was submerged. Shine a torch into the axle tube from the non drive side and you will get the idea. You can just see some thread showing.
Left it overnight and although it still required some effort, it came undone pretty smoothly using the Campag tool and a Park 10mm allen key.
The bearing cups were a complete b*stard as well - you can blame the wet weather from last year I reckon as I must have done well over a 1000 wet miles. Of course, I then left the thing hanging in the garage all winter.....0