Front wheel lifting on climb?

GavH

I sought out my first 'chevron' on the map today - Watership Down near Kingsclere in Hampshire. My cycle computer at one point did show 17% but I reckon there were parts slighlt before where it reached nearer the 20%. Using a 34x26 (my lowest gear) I must admit I was blowing out of my @rse going up it despite it being relatively short. This was not entirely surprising given that since taking up cycling back in Aug/Sep this is the steepest I've encountered yet. What did surprise me was my front wheel lifting off the ground at times as I tried to thrash myself up it. What causes this? I'm assuming some part of my technique needs refining? I really don't fancy trying to develop this into a party trick - It was hard enough without pulling a wheelie all the way up!! Thanks in advance.

nferrar

Can't say I've experienced it on a road bike (I'm always out of the saddle on a stupidly steep climb) but it's common on an MTB (where you generally need to keep more traction on the back wheel so usually can't stand up). It's basically just about getting more weight forwards, slide forward onto the nose of the saddle, pull your elbows in a stoop down a bit.

trickeyja

I haven't experienced this before either on my road bike. I would recommend keeping your weight forward as nferrar suggests, also try to keep a smooth pedal motion, perhaps you are going down too quickly on the downstroke and that combined with the steepness of the hill is making the front wheel lift during the action?

That said, I have been up some pretty steep hills at times - nearby Bushcombe Lane is a 25 percenter and I can get up it - though, to quote a cyclist's diary entry, it is "steep enough for compulsory wheelies around a left hand bend (http://www.audax.demon.co.uk/tall/corker00.html).

marusches

well done on that climb especially since your a new rider.deep down i bet you really enjoyed it though, more of an acomplishment than riding on flat.I experience similar wheel lifting on a couple of climbs around whitby 2 of which have 33% sections.what is better though is when it is slightly wet and you also wheelspin,not good then again it must be because i allways head for the climbs

http://www.ferryhillwheelers.org.uk/

iain_j

Happened to me too. I think it happens when your weight's too far back and you're pulling hard on the bars. The solution? Not sure. I automatically get out of the saddle to get my weight forwards, but then the back wheel starts slipping.

All part of the fun of climbing steep hills

roger_merriman

as others have said it's weight, you do get better, in other words practice. being heavy and growing up in a gorge i'm good at weight balance, note i don't say i'm good up the hills mind!

ride_whenever

Look at some of the mtb articles on technical climbing.

In summary:

1. Sit right on the nose of the saddle
2. Don't pick too low a gear
3. Elbows down to get your torso further forward.


Number 2. is probably your downfall. If you look at how you wheelie on a bike you're basically setting yourself up for it with your riding! If you take a slightly harder gear you wont be able to spin round as easily and find yourself suddenly lifting the front wheel.


If you're plannign on hill climbing a lot, drop you bars a little lower, it'll give you more forward weight and you wont need to be as comfy on the drops.

Anonymous

I always get this lifting, it's just cause I use enough force for it to happen.

When I was going up rosedale chimney that was a 33% I was leaning right over as I was scared I was gonna tip backwards

brighton-biker

Remain seated (if you can!) and try to kiss the stem while keeping a smooth cadence.

You could shift into a harder gear but then you might end up peddle mashing rather than pedaling smoothly at a nice cadence.

This works for me on the mountain bike when trying to find a balance between rear wheel traction and front wheel keeping on the floor. Might apply to road biking as well but ive never had this problem on the road so I'm not certain.

JGS

nferrar wrote:

Can't say I've experienced it on a road bike (I'm always out of the saddle on a stupidly steep climb) but it's common on an MTB (where you generally need to keep more traction on the back wheel so usually can't stand up).

I ride singlespeed mountain bike which means a lot of standing up on climbs. This has really helped develop a pedalling style that avoids spikes and kicks in the stroke. I think most of your problems are due to being in a slightly too easy gear and not pedalling smoothly enough. Keep going at it, and lean forward a bit more and practice practice practice. To help improve your pedal technique try keeping a really high smooth cadence on the flat every now and then to help smooth out your pedal strokes.

sloboy

There are some nice climbs in that area - I live about 15-20 miles East of there, but when I starting to get ready for Sportives, I'll pop over that way and do some loops. There a nice figure of 8 where you would go up WS Down, down the other side (!) left at the bottom which takes you in the direction of White Hill, but turn right before you get there and then left to go up to Hannington, then right down the shallow side of what's probably an escarpment, right again, right again, which then has you going back over White Hil on the not-so-steep side, then left back to the bottom of Watership Down.

It's about 21-22 miles round, contains about 550m of ascending (IIRC) and it works pretty well in either direction. One way (Up Watership Down) you get a slight focus on short sharp climbs, the other way (Up the steeper side of White Hill), you get a slight focus on longer drags.

Monty Dog

Keep the pedal stroke smooth and don't pull up so fiercely on the bars or stomp as you press down on the pedals - your weight is too far back too. For really steep climbs e.g. 25% and above, you're probably better getting out the saddle - it moves your weight forward and allows you to exert your bodyweight down through the legs and generate significantly more power - IME on really steep climbs, the problem can be keeping traction in the back wheel. In time, you'll learn that you need to vary your climbing technique depending on steepness, length and pace

GavH

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll try and stay out of the saddle longer or move myself forward on it as I was definately sat back in the saddle AND pulling on the flats of the bars too much. The thing that still shocks me is that even in 34 x 26 I found it really hard going. I'm hoping this is just my inexperience / naivety rather than a substantial question mark over my fitness.

Sloboy, I'll have a look at that loop - thanks.

Anonymous

Had this many times....I feel you can lean right over the bar to keep the wheel down with anything upto 25%...but you must balance yourself as not to lose traction on the rear wheel when doing so....and I feel you can only stay seated for so long on a very steep climb before the back muscles start to spasm....

But on the steepest climbs I have did, anything over 25% requires an out of seat effort mostly....and there is a few climbs in the Uk which are 1:3......the North York Moors and the Lake District....Some brutes in the Dales and Wales and Cornwall aswell.....I simply cannot stay seated as it starts to become ridiculous :shock:

Headhuunter

I think this sort of lifting happens particularly when you're in a very low gear - ie granny chainring and largest rear cog. Pedal stroke becomes less even in that kind of gear and you end up stomping suddenly through the down stroke, rather than a constant, even circular motion. This causes sudden bursts of energy to the rear wheel, lifting the front one off the ground.

If possibly, use the middle chainring (if using a triple) or try to mofor as long as possible. If that's not possible then move into a smaller gear at the rear to even out the pedalling motion. Also, as people have outlined above, try to keep your weight further forwards

Anonymous

I also notice my front wheel lifts on the flats, when accelerating from traffic lights as I'm in the big ring and 3rd cog down.

Headhuunter

willhub wrote:

I also notice my front wheel lifts on the flats, when accelerating from traffic lights as I'm in the big ring and 3rd cog down.

Same principle though, you must be pushing a LOT of power through the rear wheel, you just need to accelerate more evenly

oldwelshman

Have a go on rollers, it will smooth out your pedalling technique or you will be in a bit of a mess otherwise
As others have said it is probably becuase you may be sat too far back or pulling too hard on bars. It should be easy enough to practice and get your positiong right on a hill of that gradient without lifting your front wheel.
Once you get to roughly 20% and above you start to get gradients where you need to shift forward more to stop lifting and the easiest way by far is out of the saddle as you are rthen pulling up on the bars rather than backwards as you do when sat down.
Look at track sprinters and see the power they generate on a standing start!!! They do not lift the bike. Their position to stop that is hips forward and over the bars for first few pedal strokes where max power is used. Ok not exactly the same for climbing but not far off.
As others have also pointed out you may loose traction on rear wheel if too far forward, especially on roads this time of year when wet, leaves etc or even smotth tarmac (ok rare in uk lol)
The smoother you can keep you pedal stroke the less lifting and loss of traction occurs.

mididoctors2

keep you weight evenly balanced between both wheels 50/50

don't over compensate by throwing the majority of your weight onto the front wheel...

oldwelshman

mididoctors2 wrote:

keep you weight evenly balanced between both wheels 50/50

don't over compensate by throwing the majority of your weight onto the front wheel...

It depends on the gradient, road surface and weather, it may vary bit you get a feel for it after a while and becomes natural. 5-/50 will not work every time.

roger_merriman

oldwelshman wrote:

mididoctors2 wrote:

keep you weight evenly balanced between both wheels 50/50

don't over compensate by throwing the majority of your weight onto the front wheel...

It depends on the gradient, road surface and weather, it may vary bit you get a feel for it after a while and becomes natural. 5-/50 will not work every time.

indeed the nasty steep hill up to my folks place has had it's surface redone, so there is lot more traction, no more slipping on the gravel.