Spesh Tarmac switch to compact
Interested in buying a Tarmac Comp but would prefer a compact chainset. Are there any issues with fitting a compact (R600, for example)? Would chain need to be shortened? Front mech would need lowering a bit I guess.
I seem to remember looking at the front mech and it's not a band, it just seemed to be mounted on a pillar that emerged from the frame. Does that make it difficult to lower?
Anybody done this switch on a Tarmac?
I seem to remember looking at the front mech and it's not a band, it just seemed to be mounted on a pillar that emerged from the frame. Does that make it difficult to lower?
Anybody done this switch on a Tarmac?
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Comments
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It should be a simple swap. The chain would need to lose probably one link and it is an easy job to lower the front mech by slackening the Allen bolt on the mount.0
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OK, thanks. Need to have a look at the front mech mounting again. On my current bike it is a band that just slides down downtube. Looked different on Tarmac.0
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It's a straightforward switch but try a compact before you buy one. I don't like them - there's a big gap between the 50 and 34 rings and you are forever swapping between the two IME. A 12-27 cassette would be a better option. If you need lower gears than that get a triple.0
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If I was you I would listen to Rob. I have a spesh tarmac after trying out numerous bikes which were compact beforehand - it definitely doesn't deserve a compact chainset, the 53 really is no problem.0
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The Tarmac Comp comes with a 12-28 casette as standard - you won't need a compact chainset.Crash 'n Burn, Peel 'n Chew
FCN: 20 -
I had a Roubaix with a compact so I know the problem...and you are absolutely right, the jump is just too big, but i guess it is just that few gear-inches of insurance.
That said, you have made me think. Why put up with the more frequent front changes just for the sake of the few rides that need the lower gearing?
On the other hand, at the top end I found 50 absolutely fine and can't really see the point in having 53 just so I don't spin out on descents. Maybe if I was a better descender I'd get the benefit.0 -
I've just bought a custom cassette with 11/28 to combat this particular problem. I mostly use my bike in the UK which 53/39 and the 12/23 - 12/27 cassette is fine for. But I plan on taking it away overseas where I regularly ride an 80 mile loop with around 6000ft of climbing, and there is no way I could live with a standard double, so I plan to switch just the cassette but install a compact permanently. A 50/11 is a longer gear than a 53/12 anyway. There are 2 tooth jumps between many of the gears but I can live with that I reckon. Time will tell.0
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A 12-32 (12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25,28,32) 10-speed cassette is also available but expensive (about US$150).
I would prefer a 13-speed (12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,23,25,28,32) but no one makes that.
A 39/32 bottom gear is about the same as a 34/28 so should be good for Alpine climbs!0 -
rickhotrod wrote:A 12-32 (12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25,28,32) 10-speed cassette is also available but expensive (about US$150).
I think that requires a different rear derailleur though to clear the 32 tooth bottom cog. I have just bought a 28 which will 'just' clear even though Shimano say 27 is the maximum, but it requires a super long b-screw. I considered the 12/32 'mountain bike' cassette and sticking with the same crank but didn't want to change the derailleur, hence the 11/28. Also having an 11 tooth top gear is actually slightly longer with a compact crank than 39/12 so you won't spin out any sooner than you do with a standard 53/39 double.0 -
I have 3 bikes all on 50/34 with12/27 (12/23 for racing). I have no problem with the jump and have found I change the rings less not more. I often ride 65 miles without changing chainrings. It is big ring for the Vale of York and little ring for the Dales. If I do need to change I do both front and rear together and it seems just as fast as 53/39 was. It is just what you get used to.0