If you had spare cash what components would you upgrade?

Soni
Soni Posts: 1,217
edited December 2008 in Workshop
Hi guys, i purchased a Trek 1.5 2009 Model a couple of months ago and i really love the bike and also like the colours. The colours are the reason i purchased this bike.

I ride the bike everyday around 10-15 miles, and 55-60 miles on a Sunday with a club.

The bike has Sora on the front with Sora STI Shifters and Tiagra on the back.

If you had some spare cash (around £100.00) what would you upgrade?

At the time of buying the bike i stretched to the most i could afford, i spoke to the LBS a couple of weeks ago regarding upgrading my bike and he said i would be better off leaving it how it is for a year then upgrading to the next one up for 1K next year, the next one up has Shimano 105 but the same frame, but i like the colours of my frame a hell of a lot more.

Here is the bike:- http://www.trekbikes.com/uk/en/bikes/road/1_series/15/

This is the spec:-

Frame Alpha Black Aluminum
Fork Bontrager Race, carbon; SpeedTrap compatible
Wheels
Wheels Bontrager SSR
Tires Bontrager Select, 700x25c
Drivetrain
Shifters Shimano Sora STI, 9 speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Sora
Rear Derailleur Shimano Tiagra GS
Crank FSA Vero 50/34 or 50/39/30
Cassette SRAM PG950 11-26, 9 speed
Pedals Nylon body w/alloy cage
Components
Saddle Bontrager Race Basic
Seat Post Bontrager Carbon, Infinite Angle Adjustability
Handlebars Bontrager SSR VR Bend OS, 31.8mm
Stem Bontrager Race Lite OS, 7 degree, 31.8mm
Headset Aheadset w/semi-cartridge bearings, integrated, sealed, alloy
Brakeset Alloy dual pivot w/Shimano Sora STI levers

What would you guys recommend?
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Comments

  • Hi there.

    I'd spend your £100 on some clipless pedals and shoes. For that money you could probably get something the Look Keo classic's (prob aroud £35) then spend as much as you've got on shoes that fit you well and are as stiff-soled as you can find. You might find a carbon-soled shoe in this price range if they're on offer.

    Cheers, Andy
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    edited December 2008
    Wheels and Tyres are a useful upgrade - one option:

    Sell your existing wheels and tyres on Ebay: (bring in some cash).

    Buy some Fulcrum 5's / RS20's / 5600's / PlanetX Model B's and a pair of Michelin Pro Race 3's.


    (Just an option to mull over).
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    Hi there.

    I'd spend your £100 on some clipless pedals and shoes. For that money you could probably get something the Look Keo classic's (prob aroud £35) then spend as much as you've got on shoes that fit you well and are as stiff-soled as you can find. You might find a carbon-soled shoe in this price range if they're on offer.

    Cheers, Andy

    Hi Andy, just got a pair of Shimano shoes and road pedals off my Mrs for Christmas, but not allowed them until Christmas Day :D

    Anyhting else you would recommend?
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    Mettan wrote:
    Wheels and Tyres are a useful upgrade - one option:

    Sell your existing wheels and tyres on Ebay: (bring in some cash).

    Buy some Fulcrum 5's/RS20's/5600's and a pair of Michelin Pro Race 3's.

    (Just an option to mull over).

    Hi Mettan, Mrs has just got me some Bontrager Hard Case for Chrimbo as was getting a lot of punctures, anything else you would recommend?
  • Mettan
    Mettan Posts: 2,103
    Soni wrote:

    Hi Mettan, Mrs has just got me some Bontrager Hard Case for Chrimbo as was getting a lot of punctures, anything else you would recommend?

    If you've got your tyre situation sorted, personally, I'd upgrade your wheels to a lighter, better performing pair. Something like:

    Fulcrum 5's
    RS20's
    Shimano 5600's
    PlanetX Model B's

    Quite common to upgrade stock bike wheels and tyres.
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    Mettan wrote:
    Soni wrote:

    Hi Mettan, Mrs has just got me some Bontrager Hard Case for Chrimbo as was getting a lot of punctures, anything else you would recommend?

    If you've got your tyre situation sorted, personally, I'd upgrade your wheels to a lighter, better performing pair. Something like:

    Fulcrum 5's
    RS20's
    Shimano 5600's
    PlanetX Model B's

    Quite common to upgrade stock bike wheels and tyres.

    Hi mate, would you recommend upgrading the Sora/Tiagra combination to 105? And if so can i replace bits at a time?
  • Lagavulin
    Lagavulin Posts: 1,688
    I'd add a set of Aksiums to the list of wheel upgrades. I've had my set of the heavier '07s longer than my Racing 7's and prefer the Mavics. With hindsight I wished I'd opted for set of the lighter '08 Aksiums over the entry-level Fulcrums.
  • johans
    johans Posts: 24
    I agree with the LBS - save your money and leave it as is and upgrade to a new bike.
  • Andy is bang on. Keos and shoes. Given you have that in hand, getting £150 wheels is a bit of a waste of time I'd say. Save your money for a better set of wheels. You can always swap them onto next year's machine if you end up with it. When you wear out the Hard Cases try PR3s, GP4000s or a nice Vittoria.
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    Hi guys, just interested in the reasons why some people would opt for holding on and upgrading to the next model up next year or the year after?

    I have the 1.5 and the next one up is the 1.7, it has the exact same frame as mine, but i don't like the colour scheme of the 1.7, and some may not like the colour scheme of my 1.5 :lol: as its lime green/white......however the 1.7 is Red/White which i find a little bland...

    It took me ages to find the colour bike i liked........

    Would it be a complete waste of time/money if i was to upgrade my bike if i like the colour of it?
  • It depends on how far you want to upgrade.Swapping to new 105 shifters,is expensive,approx £120,then you will need a new 10 speed cassette,chain add another £30-50.So thats £170.If you want a new chainset thats another £100.
    If you really want to upgrade your existing frame.you might be better off buying a complete groupset,but 105 is £300 plus.I suppose you could recoup some money by selling the old stuff.
    Alternatively use your current stuff until it wears out and uprgrade at replacement,time.
    A wheel upgrade tends to make the biggest difference to bike performance,whereas shifters and mechs can be a bit marginal for the expense involved.Wheels are also easily transferred to your next bike.
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  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    It depends on how far you want to upgrade.Swapping to new 105 shifters,is expensive,approx £120,then you will need a new 10 speed cassette,chain add another £30-50.So thats £170.If you want a new chainset thats another £100.
    If you really want to upgrade your existing frame.you might be better off buying a complete groupset,but 105 is £300 plus.I suppose you could recoup some money by selling the old stuff.
    Alternatively use your current stuff until it wears out and uprgrade at replacement,time.
    A wheel upgrade tends to make the biggest difference to bike performance,whereas shifters and mechs can be a bit marginal for the expense involved.Wheels are also easily transferred to your next bike.

    Thanks Spiderman, i've just been out on my bike this morning and must admit the rear gears work and change fine, they are more than good enough for me, however the front (triple) changing from the middle cog up to the large cog take about 4-5 seconds to get in properly and takes some work/effort.

    If i was to just replace the front Sora would this help the above?

    Also, what difference would i notice by changing the wheels? I'm not really bothered about weight......
  • softlad
    softlad Posts: 3,513
    Soni wrote:
    Also, what difference would i notice by changing the wheels? I'm not really bothered about weight......

    if you're not bothered about the weight and the bike already works well, then I would leave it as it is - although a good set of wheels will make a big difference to how the bike rides and how quickly it accelerates.

    If you've already got clipless pedals then I would spend money looking at your saddle, bars and general riding position - make sure that it is spot on and that you are sitting on a seat which is the right shape for your ar5e.
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    softlad wrote:
    Soni wrote:
    Also, what difference would i notice by changing the wheels? I'm not really bothered about weight......

    if you're not bothered about the weight and the bike already works well, then I would leave it as it is.

    If you've already got clipless pedals then I would spend money looking at your saddle, bars and general riding position - make sure that it is spot on and that you are sitting on a seat which is the right shape for your ar5e.

    Hi mate, yeah the bike fits me perfectly, the LBS i purchased from took all my measurements and put it into a computer program and originally i was told by various bike shops i needed a 56cm frame, but the program calculated me as a 58cm due to having a long torso.

    The bike fits me perfectly, rides really nicely, don't get any discomfort, i just wish the gears changed a little more sharply/crisply like my 14yr old mountain bike (Marin Palisades Trail) does, its got Shimano STX gears.....
  • Infamous
    Infamous Posts: 1,130
    a respray?
  • Ken Night
    Ken Night Posts: 2,005
    Don't upgrade for the sake of getting better or lighter components, just to change one part of a groupset-

    I'm assuming you've just started...

    I would change the contact points, if and only if, required on a comfort/ergonomic basis

    Buying components is very expensive on an ad hoc basis, you'd be much better off riding the bike, travelling to different places to do so, entering sportives (or whatever) and investing in good quality clothing

    If you follow the path most of us do, you'll find
    -either you lust after another, undoubtedly more expensive bike before too long
    -or you find the limitations of the current bike after you spend a lot of time riding it

    Changing components is a slippery slope. You'll end up with a box of stuff and eventually you'll start to think you can make another bike out of the discarded components, and spend a whole lot of money doing that, using the components you didn't want much in the first place.

    No, replace the parts on the current bike on an "as needs" basis

    Therefore, keep your powder dry until that point comes
    “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best..." Ernest Hemingway
  • Chirg
    Chirg Posts: 141
    Hi Soni, I agree with Ken that it is too soon to be looking at changing the groupset. Ride the bike until parts wear out and you know what works and does not work for you.

    You don't know yet, but you might find out in six months that you would prefer a compact or a double rather than the triple (as I did). A little extreme, but you might even be lusting after Campagnolo or SRAM after trying other bikes, it is too soon to tell.

    The safest upgrade is always a wheelset as you can transfer them between bikes and it gives you the most bang for your buck. A lighter wheelset spins up more quickly and is easier to drag up the hills. Strangely enough although I live in flat London and cycle nothing more arduous than the Surrey downs I prefer non aero light wheels as I have to stop/start all the way through London to get out in to the country. I only realised this when I borrowed a set of wheels when mine were in for repair.

    Save your money for now.
  • robbarker
    robbarker Posts: 1,367
    As Ken has said, just ride the thing and get fitter. That will give you much more satisfaction and benefit than having a different decal on your components - they don't feel that much different. An awful lot of upgrades are done for snob value.

    The thing that will keep you enjoying your bike is keeping it in tip top condition mechanically. A well set-up and maintained bike like yours will feel nicer to rider, and probably be faster, than a £1500 bike with a dirty drivetrain, underpumped tyres and badly adjusted gears.

    I'd spend the money on a basic workstand and tools, and some decent cleaning kit.
  • PHcp
    PHcp Posts: 2,748
    Soni wrote:
    the front (triple) changing from the middle cog up to the large cog take about 4-5 seconds to get in properly and takes some work/effort.

    That will almost definatly be a matter of adjustment, it's common for the cables on a new bike to stretch after a few rides. Either take it back to the shop to sort out, or better still learn how to do it yourself.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
    I can't think of a single component for £100 that would make a significant difference.
    I would change the brake blocks to Koolstop Salmon, they give better braking and are kinder to rims. If you haven't already got one a track pump to keep your tyres inflated to the optimum pressure is a good idea. Then, as above, a workstand, a few basic tools and cleaning kit will help you get the most from what you've got
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    edited December 2008
    robbarker wrote:
    As Ken has said, just ride the thing and get fitter. That will give you much more satisfaction and benefit than having a different decal on your components - they don't feel that much different. An awful lot of upgrades are done for snob value.

    The thing that will keep you enjoying your bike is keeping it in tip top condition mechanically. A well set-up and maintained bike like yours will feel nicer to rider, and probably be faster, than a £1500 bike with a dirty drivetrain, underpumped tyres and badly adjusted gears.

    I'd spend the money on a basic workstand and tools, and some decent cleaning kit.

    Hi Mate, funny i was thinking of one of those work stands......but i bet they are a little more than £100.00......just about to take a look!
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    PHcp wrote:
    Soni wrote:
    the front (triple) changing from the middle cog up to the large cog take about 4-5 seconds to get in properly and takes some work/effort.

    That will almost definatly be a matter of adjustment, it's common for the cables on a new bike to stretch after a few rides. Either take it back to the shop to sort out, or better still learn how to do it yourself.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
    I can't think of a single component for £100 that would make a significant difference.
    I would change the brake blocks to Koolstop Salmon, they give better braking and are kinder to rims. If you haven't already got one a track pump to keep your tyres inflated to the optimum pressure is a good idea. Then, as above, a workstand, a few basic tools and cleaning kit will help you get the most from what you've got

    I was looking at the brake calipers today and they didn't say anything on them, not even Shimano! It doesn't mention in my spec above either.......do you reckon it would be worth upgrading them???? If so then what to? As i understand you can also get brake calipers from Sora - Dura Ace........
  • PHcp
    PHcp Posts: 2,748
    The brakes will be fine, it's just the standard pads that could be improved.
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Kool_ ... 300005952/
    Hi Mate, funny i was thinking of one of those work stands......but i bet they are a little more than £100.00......just about to take a look!

    Mine was £55 and works well enough, though you can spend £100s
    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... 0000000000
  • Sora is Shimano's entry level brakes, then Tigra, 105, Ultegra, Ultegra SL (Not silver but grey coloured. Slightly Lighter and more expensive than standard Ultegra) then tasty range topping Dura Ace.
    I wouldn't bother with changing much yet. £100 won't get you many upgrades, but if you really want to spend the money, trade your wheels in and get a deal on some new wheels. They will make the bike nicer to ride and you'll feel like you got some benefit for your money.
    You said you want to move to the 1.7 which is the same frame but with different kit. To be honest, I'd be thinking of replacing the parts on your existing frame. It'd be far cheaper and you can have what you want.
    105 is a fantstic groupset. The kit is excellant value for money and well worth upgrading to. Dura Ace is fantastic kit as you would expect, but for my money, if I was going for top level stuff (Again) I'd go for Ultegra SL. It's not far off Dura Ace weight, but about 1/2 the price!
    If you have friends who ride SRAM or Campag ask if you can try their bikes. You may find you prefer something non shimano....
    p.s. I love Campag, but its a personal thing.
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  • WHEELS. WHEELS. WHEELS.

    8) 8) 8)
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    A decent set of tools and lubes/solvents/rags.
    I like bikes...

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  • WORKSTAND. WORKSTAND.WORKSTAND

    :lol::lol::lol:

    Seriously the £60 odd quid I spent on a Workstand was probably one of my best cycling buys.

    It was only a cheap BikeTool stand but has fixed my bike, my neighbours bike and several kids bikes.


    P.S. You'll need to buy some tools to.
  • WHEELS. WHEELS. WHEELS.

    8) 8) 8)

    Not for £100 - won't be much of an upgrade on what he's got already.

    No, stick your £100 in a bank, then next year you'll have... £64.47 to spend on wheels...

    Cheers, Andy
  • gavintc
    gavintc Posts: 3,009
    I agree with a lot of the comment on here. Sora works, it is not perfect but it works. Run it out first, get used to the bike. When you have the cash I would recommend some better wheels and 105. But, do not spend £100 on wheels, You need to spend to get an improvement - lighter and stiffer. It will probably cost you £200 for a decent set of wheels and over £300 - 350 for 105.
  • Soni
    Soni Posts: 1,217
    Hi Guys, i'm taking your advice, this is what i intend doing.

    Going out to buy a bike maintenance stand today, and then as and when the gears wear/require replacing, will be keeping the existing frame as its a really light frame and i really do like the colours (some think its a bit OTT but i like bright and unusual things :D ) and will be adding 105 components as and when my existing Sora fail.

    I've just come back from a ride, and again the gears all move really nicely and smoothly, apart from that middle front cog to the large (triple), it requires a bit of shifting/force but hopefully i'll be able to adjust/tweak this when i get my bike stand.

    These are the ones i've been considering, let me know which ones you guys would go with:-

    http://www.cyclesuk.com/340-526022

    http://www.cycle-ops.co.uk/products.php ... 23s153p613

    http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/p ... &xSec=4138

    http://www.bromleybike.co.uk/shop/works ... 92541.html

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... 0000000000

    :? :? :?
  • Gav888
    Gav888 Posts: 946
    Pedals
    Seat
    Stem
    Cycling never gets any easier, you just go faster - Greg LeMond