Crankset Removal Problem

Anonymous

I have a problem trying to remove it, pic is below.

Basically I have loosened the cup with the crank tool but I keep turning and the cup wont come off!!!!

Here it is below: (replacing with a 105 crankset bearings):

I hope I havent broke it , or even worse broke the frame



Thanks
Will.

Stuck on a Giant

Will, take the chainrings and axle out first. The axle sits quite snugly on the beariings so that may be what is holding it in place.

Anonymous

But I cant take the chainrings out without undoing that surely? :?:

dennisn

Stuck on a Giant wrote:

Will, take the chainrings and axle out first. The axle sits quite snugly on the beariings so that may be what is holding it in place.

What he said. Pull the cranks and axle first.

Dennis Noward

Anonymous

dennisn wrote:

Stuck on a Giant wrote:

Will, take the chainrings and axle out first. The axle sits quite snugly on the beariings so that may be what is holding it in place.

What he said. Pull the cranks and axle first.

Dennis Noward

How? I tried pulling on it hard but it wont without that cup off.

djb1971

remove the non drive crank arm and un hook the chain from the chainrings. Pull on the chainrings and gently tap the axle from the other side with your palm. The whole lot will pop out.

Anonymous

I'm really confused though, there is a cup on each side no? I need to un do that? :?:

djb1971

Remove the cups after you've taken off the chainset

It may help to screw the loose one back in a bit

Watch the threads!!!!!

look here

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=122

djb1971

These are super simple to remove and replace. When replacing the cap on the crank arm don't over do it, just a couple of mm pinch when you feel resistance if you've not got a torque wrench. The crank arm bolts will snug it securely. There should be no resistance when spinning it backwards and it should spin freely. If you've got tight spots you've done it up too tight.

Anonymous

Ok chainrings are coming off put I pull and then it wont come out any further?

Anonymous

Ok its off!

Do I need to put greese on the threads? I think the threads are ok from what I can see.

Also I notice I got no spacers with the bearings and also I notice when I took them off there was no spacers?

djb1971

Just refit as the old one and I put anti seize on my threads and a light smear on the spindle to stop creaks and ensure easier removal after the winter grime has soaked in.

dennisn

Just out of curiosity, what are you trying to do? Replace bearings? Just having a look at things? Don't mean to sound preachy, but do you have instructions for this crankset, that you can follow when you want to put it back together. It's fairly simple, if you know exactly how to do it. Not knowing and making an attempt at it is not the best of ideas
when something this expensive is at stake. Putting something together wrong and then
wrenching it up tight is, well, not recommended.

Dennis Noward

Anonymous

I am trying to save money.

My ******* commuter bike has just snapped a spoke like 5 mins ago :evil:, going to have to get the tools to do that myself now aswell as a new spoke.

The bearings where worn out in the old crank so I had to get a new one.

redddraggon

Don't take the chainrings off, just pull the driveside crank (with chainrings) off.

The BB cups should unscrew rather easily, if they don't you might have done some cross threading.

John.T

Will. I think you must be doing all the rest of us a favour by having all the problems so the rest of us can get on with riding.
Seriously though from the number of posts you have put on here you are finding faults where none exist or you should really get someone to check your bikes over and give you some help with them. You have had more problems in 8 month than I have had in 50 odd years. Please get some help. If you are really desparate PM me when you are back in York and I will see if I can help.

Anonymous

Thanks I might do that.

Although the crank is fitted and running smoothly! , I enjoyed fitting it in the end.

Cant be my fault the crank went though, must have being wear? It was the bearing inside and it's not like I can take em out and polish em and grease em is it?

John.T

No. Only 2 reasons for a BB bearing to wear out prematurely.
1. Dirt getting in. Do you pressure wash the bike or hose directly on to the BB. This can flush muck through the seals.
2. Incorrect fitting due to the BB shell not being faced.
Add the remote possibility that it was a faulty bearing cup.

Glad you are up and running again.

Anonymous

John.T wrote:

No. Only 2 reasons for a BB bearing to wear out prematurely.
1. Dirt getting in. Do you pressure wash the bike or hose directly on to the BB. This can flush muck through the seals.
2. Incorrect fitting due to the BB shell not being faced.
Add the remote possibility that it was a faulty bearing cup.

Glad you are up and running again.

Well there was some dirt in there.

What do you mean it not being faced? I hope I have done it correctly, it seems OK, no wobble and really smooth.

Since my spoke broke I bought some more tools, I think I have enough tools to do some things like:

Maintain breaks
Maintain gears
Remove and replace cassette myself
True wheels
replace spokes
replace bottom bracket
etc...

Small collection but I'm getting there :

JohnnyAllez

Look here for Shimano info, instructions to remove or re-fit most things

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... d/105.html

also this is well worth a look for those doing their own maintenance

www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=68

Tip - don`t try to "true" your wheels unless you REALLY know what you`re doing, or they will end up VERY un-true! :shock:

redddraggon

Will, you are a student in Manchester, you should spend a bit more time in the pub rather than worrying about your bike

Anonymous

redddraggon wrote:

Will, you are a student in Manchester, you should spend a bit more time in the pub rather than worrying about your bike

I don't like going to pubs on me own and these gals in my flat don't do pubs, only chavvy tiger tiger and the guy god knows where he is, getting stoned somewhere.

Besides cycling is my hobby and I don't want to give it up and I aim to improve my performance.

Surely that pic of the tools shows at least that I want to be able to maintain my own bike and that I am serious about cycling?

I'm going to true my wheels up, I'm not going to pay 10 quid for Edinburgh cycles to do it when I've got the tools to do it myself now to save me money in the long run.

John.T

Facing is making sure the ends of the BB shell are parallel. It requires a rather expensive tool and is a shop job. This is important on outboard BBs but I do not know how much care frame makers take with this now they are using these BBs. It did not matter with cartridge ones.

Anonymous

Well mine is working fine at the moment, I guess I'll know in a month or so.


I tried truing my wheel.

It is still out of true and moved up and down too, I'm going to leave it though as it's on my commuter bike, only 2-3miles to college and same back, if it gives up I'll start walking it as I cant afford to get it fixed at shop.

I don't think I can afford to keep my main bike maintained too. The front mech needs doing and thats going to cost 8 quid although now I got some new cables I'll give it another bash myself.

Also the rear brake on my main bike needs fixing as it wont work properly, just jammed up and when it's on the bike it stays in locked position after pulling on the cable, so might need a new break there.

And I need 2 new breaks for my commuter (my fault really) as the breaks are the wrong size for the bike and halfrauds kept on telling me they where fine but that was first half of 2008 so too late now.

I am annoyed I paid 48 quid to enable me to attempt to true the wheel myself as that failed miserably and all it enabled me to do this chain whip and the spanner and special thing is to remove the cassette when I need to change that and fit a new spoke, still would have to take it to bike shop. Wish I could return the chain whip and that, would be able to afford my wheel truing at the shop 5 times.

Havent had a decent ride in over a week now I cant wait until my main bike is back in a position to go on a long ride, only have one break on it and pad is wearing fast. Old bike also has one break as it only has one shifter due to me using the other on my main bike as it broke.

Total shambles really, december, the worst month of the year 2008, could not be worse really

I could have upgraded my PC nicely for the 200 quid I spent already, makes me think about quitting cycling until I saved up and got a job. Although I do feeling like maintaining my bike as long as I can until the last penny I have as cycling is my favorite thing and it's not like I'm wasting money.