Chain failure

akcc05
akcc05 Posts: 336
edited November 2008 in Workshop
My chain broke today when I was accelerating from a dead stop at a light. It's a Dura-Ace 9 chain I picked up at a bargain price only a few months ago, the chain could not have done more than 300 miles. I did fit the chain myself but I have done that many times before so I don't think it's my mistake. I do a 4-5 mile commute 7 days a week and I clean and lube the chain at least once a month.

Everything on my drive train is Shimano:

7700 Dura-Ace 9 chain
6500 Ultegra 9 cassette
4500 Tiagra 34/50 9 compact
M770 XT RapidFire 9 trigger

The chain did not fail at the pin but at the middle (thinnest) of the connecting plate. Any ideas what happened? I'm kind of curious.

Thanks

Comments

  • topdude
    topdude Posts: 1,557
    Impossible to say of course but maybe just a manufacturing fault (you know the old thing about being the weakest link etc).
    Or maybe it was not a genuine Shimano product hence the "bargain" price :(
    He is not the messiah, he is a very naughty boy !!
  • Worst nightmare for me.

    Did your nads escape a sudden top tube interaction?
  • akcc05
    akcc05 Posts: 336
    i got the chain from wiggle so it's got to be a genuine shimano chain right? maybe it was just a one-off defect.

    i'm alright, apart from bruising my right calve from hitting the pedals hard. i did have to walk the rest of the 2 miles home looking like a ballet dancer in my tights though, you know how cold it was last night right?
  • No idea what happened other than a manufacturing fault, but you should contact Wiggle - warranty or not it has not 'performed as reasonably expected'.

    "The Sale of Goods Act 1979 ensures goods should be of satisfactory quality and fit to do the job intended for them."

    http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/shopping/consumer-rights-refunds-exchan
  • oldwelshman
    oldwelshman Posts: 4,733
    Did you fit the shimano link? I never use that as I have heard they break a lot. I just fit a secret link, never had one brake yet, touch wood.
  • akcc05
    akcc05 Posts: 336
    unfortunately, i stupidly removed the excess slack in the chain when i fitted it so it only covers my smallest gear (50/25), which means i can't really cut out the broken plate. i think shimano only sale replacement pins but not plates. i sometimes "accidentally" go down to 50/23 and i don't want to wreck my faithful 105 short mech so looks like its gonna be a new chain.

    i'm definately gonna try and get a warranty though, thanks for the idea Beeblebrox.
  • I broke my elbow when a Campag chain snapped on me last year, claime dit on warrenty and recieved a new chain and (best of all) an apology!
    "In many ways, my story was that of a raging, Christ-like figure who hauled himself off the cross, looked up at the Romans with blood in his eyes and said 'My turn, sock cookers'"

    @gietvangent
  • akcc05
    akcc05 Posts: 336
    guess i was lucky then...

    an apology!? what about your 1 million compensation? should have sued them!!!

    just kidding, us cyclists are nice people, hope you are well and back on the bike.
  • Why not put the links you removed back in.
    I have only two things to say to that; Bo***cks
  • akcc05
    akcc05 Posts: 336
    Why not put the links you removed back in.

    tried, too small and that was a few months back...connection plates in a haystack...

    is there anything else i can do without getting a new chain? i'm currently looking at shimano HG73 (cheapest 11.95 from merlin, postage incl.)
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    If it was one of the outer plates that broke you could just fit a KMC Missing Link joining link. It would replace the damaged one and also make the chain easier to remove for cleaning. Wipperman and Sram also do them. Make sure you get the one for your size chain.
    It is unusual for a plate to break, it is normally the pins that come loose in the plates and let the chain part there.
  • Shimano chains must only be joined using the supplied pin which restricts removal for cleaning, if you fit using the other method you will weaken the outer plate.

    I would return it to wiggle, they are usually very good at this kind of thing and considering the mileage and length of time they should replace without quibble.

    I have also snapped a new Dura-Ace chain at the plates before in a sprint, it was like riding a rodeo horse with the bike bouncing all over the place in the bunch!! I now use Sram chains and have not had any problems at all.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    There is no problem using non Shimano joining links on Shimano chains. Been doing it for years as have many on here.
  • John.T wrote:
    There is no problem using non Shimano joining links on Shimano chains. Been doing it for years as have many on here.

    Except for:

    1, Voiding any warranty.
    2, If the chain fails and you crash and injure yourself you would get nowhere with a claim.
    3, Any damage caused to your bike/components would not be covered.

    When my chain snapped it tore one of my spokes out of a Carbon 4 spoked rear wheel and I caught my calf on the outer chainring, this resulted in septicemia and a written off £700 wheel. After a letter to Madison with the chain they covered the cost of the wheel and apologised. If I had used another link they would have probably used the 'modified from original specification' excuse and I would have been out of pocket.

    I am not saying you 'cannot' use another link, I am saying I 'wouldn't' advise it, which I maybe should have made clearer in my original post.

    Taken from Shimano's warranty page:

    WARRANTY EXCLUSIONS

    This warranty does not cover:
    · the Shimano Product if it has been modified or repaired by a person other than an authorized Shimano dealer;
    · the Shimano Product if it has been used for rental or commercial purposes;
    · damage resulting from causes other than defects in materials and workmanship, including but not limited to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper repair, improper maintenance, alteration, modification or other abnormal, excessive or improper use;
    · damage occurring during shipment of the Shimano Product;
    · products that are not manufactured by or for Shimano (whether or not packaged or sold with the Shimano Product at the time of purchase); and
    · damage resulting from use of products which are defective or incompatible with the Shimano Product;
    · damage resulting from normal wear and tear, including but not limited to damage or deterioration to the surface finish, aesthetics or appearance of the Shimano Product.

    This warranty expressly provides for the repair or replacement of a defective Shimano Product and is the sole remedy of the warranty. Any and all other remedies and damage that may otherwise be applicable are excluded, including but not limited to, incidental and consequential damages.
  • John.T
    John.T Posts: 3,698
    the Shimano Product if it has been modified or repaired by a person other than an authorized Shimano dealer;
    That rules most of us out as we shorten (modify) our chains when we fit them. Also that is the Shimano warranty which is valueless in the UK as your claim is against the supplier, in this case Wiggle. But for a broken chain I would say best of luck, Worth a try though.
  • John.T wrote:
    the Shimano Product if it has been modified or repaired by a person other than an authorized Shimano dealer;
    That rules most of us out as we shorten (modify) our chains when we fit them. Also that is the Shimano warranty which is valueless in the UK as your claim is against the supplier, in this case Wiggle. But for a broken chain I would say best of luck, Worth a try though.

    It was taken off Shimano Europes website, shortening is not an issue and should be expected. I do agree though that you shouldn't have an issue making a claim, plus you will probably get your postage back :D which is a bonus
  • 16simon
    16simon Posts: 154
    to the original poster: do you run your chain at an angle, eg leave it in the big ring and shift to the biggest sprockets instead of dropping into the inner ring?

    this can put a lot if stress on the chain, i've seen chains fail when used frequently like this, the side pressure either snaps a link or pops it off the joining pin.
  • akcc05
    akcc05 Posts: 336
    16simon wrote:
    to the original poster: do you run your chain at an angle, eg leave it in the big ring and shift to the biggest sprockets instead of dropping into the inner ring?

    this can put a lot if stress on the chain, i've seen chains fail when used frequently like this, the side pressure either snaps a link or pops it off the joining pin.

    no, the smallest gear i run with the 50 ring is 21T, which is the third sprocket on my 12-25 cassette, i very rarely go on 23T, when i do, it would only be for a very short time, matter of seconds. i think i was on 50/19 when i broke the chain.

    i'm quite busy with uni work these days but i will inspect the chain again the moment i have a free slot and send wiggle an e-mail.

    you guys are good at this kind of warranty things from the look of it, you guys break things often or something? really appreciate your opinions