Mudguards... HELP!

damage36
damage36 Posts: 282
edited October 2008 in Workshop
Evening all,

I type to you with grubby oily hands as I'm trying to fit my new SKS mudguards (the full chromo plastic ones). However, I have two big problems...

1)There doesn't seem to be an eyelet on the ends of my fork for the front mudguard. Do I need an extra attachment to put on the fork that provides eyelets?

2) I haven't a clue how to attach the rear mudguard, I've taken the brakes off... do I attach it to the frame here??

For reference, my steed is an Specialized Allez 08. It has eyelets on the seat stays and at the top of the fork, rather suggesting it SHOULD be able to take guards. It certainly has the clearance.

Tomorrow's commute looks unlikely at present :(
Legs, lungs and lycra.

Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Comments

  • Kieran_Burns
    Kieran_Burns Posts: 9,757
    I bet you got these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/SKS_C ... 360010679/

    but you need these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/SKS_R ... 360013199/

    as the bike doesn't have the mount points for the full mudguard set. Oddly enough I have a set of the race blades lying around as I preferred the full ones. (which are now fitted)

    To fit the rear ones (when you HAVE the correct frame) you put the brake mounting bolt through the clip in the middle of the guard and then into the frame. At the base of the frame (crank , wheel side) there is a hole where the guard screws in, and finally the arms are bolted to the frame at the eyelets by the rear wheel crank
    Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
    2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
    2011 Trek Madone 4.5
    2012 Felt F65X
    Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    You just need P clips that attach to the fork or stays.
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    See the commuting general for my full rant. But I have resigned to defeat. SKS race blades on their way. I've heard some clubs won't let you on their club runs in the wet with just the blades though :(
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • Barry Roubaix
    Barry Roubaix Posts: 233
    You can use your Chromoplastic ones. You just need some clips like these

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... ORTMUDR200

    Just fit them to your forks.
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    Barry Roubaix wrote:
    You can use your Chromoplastic ones. You just need some clips like these

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productde ... ORTMUDR200

    Just fit them to your forks.

    But how to solve the problem of the rear mudguard. Plus I assume I have to fit the front guard using the brake block hole in the fork. Is that a good idea?
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    If the frame and forks have sufficient CLEARANCE(s) between bridges/crown and tyres then of course you can fit proper 'grds - RaceBlades only a poor substitute when can't fit real ones in the spaces!

    P-clips are easy and cheap. Copper plumbing fittings are even cheaper and just take a bit of bending!

    "I assume I have to fit the front guard using the brake block hole in the fork. Is that a good idea?"

    Well seems to have been the accepted practice for last 100 years or so....
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    meagain wrote:
    If the frame and forks have sufficient CLEARANCE(s) between bridges/crown and tyres then of course you can fit proper 'grds - RaceBlades only a poor substitute when can't fit real ones in the spaces!

    P-clips are easy and cheap. Copper plumbing fittings are even cheaper and just take a bit of bending!

    "I assume I have to fit the front guard using the brake block hole in the fork. Is that a good idea?"

    Well seems to have been the accepted practice for last 100 years or so....

    Having been cycling for the last 4 months of said 100 years or so, I wasn't to know. Still, I'm not sure how to go about fitting the rear guards, any advice?
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Follow kierans instructions above.
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    Ta! Although i might just get some carbon look race blades, and save these for a 2nd hand fixie for next year
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • stfc1
    stfc1 Posts: 505
    I've recently won my war with a set of Chromoplastics. The key to success is time and patience! Let no one kid you that fitting these things isn't a pain in the backside, but the end result is worth it.

    IF your frame is designed to take full guards, you will be able to attach the rear one to the chain stay bridge (it will have a hole for this purpose), then the main bracket can be attached where the brakes are screwed to the seat stay bridge. Then all you have to do is fit the mudguard stays, which is where the real fun starts as they were significantly too long and sawing through steel is a time consuming process.

    Sounds like your fork isn't designed to take a full guard (mine was), so follow the p-clip advice others have given you.

    I thought the job might take me an hour or two... but only being able to work at it in snatches of half-an-hour here and there it took me closer to a week! :oops:
  • Hugh A
    Hugh A Posts: 1,189
    I don't know your bike, but when you say it has eyelets at the top of the fork - where exactly are these? Some forks have mid point eyelets which are usually for fitting racks but can also be used to fit the guards, although the rods may need bending to suit.

    If there is no chainstay bridge with a hole for fixing the bottom of the rear guard (just behind the bottom bracket) then it is quite easy to fix it with zip ties round the chainstays and small holes drilled in the guard either side.

    If the bike is not designed to take mudguards then some improvisation is needed. The full guards give much better protection than race blades in heavy rain but blades are still better than nothing. Mostly what they do is help to keep grime and grit off the bike (as well as yourself - keeping feet dryer a welcome by-product).
    I\'m sure I had one of those here somewhere
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    I think I'll check with my local club whether I'd be allowed on their runs with just blades and then improvise if I need to.
    Presumably if they are a bugger to get on, they are are equally awkward to take off.
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • comsense
    comsense Posts: 245
    I have just fit a full set of mudguards to a frame without 'guard eyelets.
    I used the plastic handles of paint cans and bent them around the the forks and stays until I had a tight fit. I then drilled them and put bolts through. Happy with end result because its tidy and functional.
    As fossyant said you can order P clips or as meagain said plumbing fixtures but most people will have a half empty tin of paint in the shed. I used plumbing fittings on another frame - make sure you protect frame if they aren't the plastic fittings.
    If you have SAFE clearance any of these make a good job but if the you encounter too little clearance at either fork or brake bridge you can cut guard and make a metal bracket to attach the guard on either side of fork or brake bridge. Something you run into with some sets of 'guards are bridge clips that go around the profile of the 'guard. these take a lot of clearance - so cut the clip and rivet it onto the the guard after you have marked 'guard exactly where you need the clip.
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    "the plastic handles of paint cans"

    Hadn't thought of that - good tip!!
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    One good thing about my guards is that if anything gets wedged underneath them - they should pop out of their brackets.

    Unlike the old ones that would dump you on the floor in a heap. Ahem.

    So make sure you do use the safety clip things and not just screw the rods straight into the P clip jobbies.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    My guards only have safety clips at the front but not at the back. is there a reason for this? Should I have safety clips at the back too?
    My photography // My helmet cam videos // My bike
  • damage36
    damage36 Posts: 282
    Jamey wrote:
    My guards only have safety clips at the front but not at the back. is there a reason for this? Should I have safety clips at the back too?

    If your front wheel jams, you go over your handlebars. If it skids, you fall off.
    If your backwheel jams or skids, you'll be alright its a lot easier to control and you won't be flipped over.
    Legs, lungs and lycra.

    Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
  • ColinJ
    ColinJ Posts: 2,218
    comsense wrote:
    If you have SAFE clearance any of these make a good job but if the you encounter too little clearance at either fork or brake bridge you can cut guard and make a metal bracket to attach the guard on either side of fork or brake bridge.
    See my contribution in this thread for an example.

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