Winter Night Riding

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  • yogi
    yogi Posts: 456
    tenbar

    We've been night riding for nearly 20 years often across Dartmoor, narrow lanes and relatively quiet A roads too.

    So far we've not had any problems. Well I say that but there has been a couple of incidents where we hit ice and everyone went down like skittles but twice in 20 years ain't bad.

    My personal choice for MTB and Road training is a Lumicycle 12 watt spot with a Li-ion (£170 depending on battery etc) - it gives a nice long beam and just the right width too. I did try a Light & Motion, one of the 3 stage £100 jobs but sent it back. A few guys have the HID lights - very impressive in performance and price! For rear lights we all use good LEDs from Smart, Cateye, etc. If you're on unlit roads you need a good reach to the beam.

    In the winter most of my training is done at night either solo or with the group of up to 12, it's second nature to us, the speeds we do are no different to daytime riding.
  • Im probably going to get some new lights this year to upgrade my old halogen vistalites, i am leaning towards the ay up mtb set so i can use them on and off road depending on who i am doing what with they are getting good reviews on both product and support and £250 for a 2x2 setup (2lights on bars 2 on head when off road) seems a hell of a deal
    You just gotta peddle
  • hothead
    hothead Posts: 123
    Going to be my first year of riding into work in the dark, so one or two questions:-

    1. Do I point the front light downwards?

    2. Anyone know where I can get little flashing lights for my back/bag and helmet lights?

    Cheers :)
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    1) I point my light slightly downwards so it avoids drivers eye level, but I am keen not to point it too far down as I still want to be noticeable. When riding on unlit roads or paths and seeing the road surface is more important I just adjust it on the move to light up an area suitably far ahead for the speed I'm doing.

    I don't know about rear lights on helmets but the Smart Superflash is very bright, small and reliable, for about £12 delivered, get one or two.
  • Phekdra
    Phekdra Posts: 137
    I'm probably going to get a set of Ay-Ups to replace the Light and Motion Vega that I used last winter, particularly after some of the comments here. It was fine on a hybrid but totally inadequate on a road bike. Could anyone who has one answer a simple question - as far as I can see you mount it on the bar with a bracket spanning the stem, and then strap the battery beneath the stem. That doesn't appear to leave much real estate left for cycle computers and the like - is it small enough that you can squeeze a few bits and bobs along side it? Well, one Cateye cycle computer but I have my eye on a Garmin Edge! :P

    Phekdra
  • alfablue

    looked at the dealextremem lights and these look really good for the price, but apologies for a probably stupid question, but how do you fit them to the bike?
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    Not stupid, you need a Twofish Lockblock - a very simple rubber/velcro mount, works a treat, about £6. There is a video on the link showing it in action.

    For loads of pictures from a real bike light nut - see here

    Also, this thread may be of interest.
  • shmo
    shmo Posts: 321
    This thread has made me feel really good about the chances of getting out on the bike to train this winter. I've got a collection of cheap LEDs that I use for commuting through town but always considered proper bright lights with sufficient visibility for until roads to out of my price range. Really like the idea of hooking up one of those FENIX torches on my handlebars along with a selection of my best red LEDs on the rear.

    My main issue is with reflectives, especially pedal reflectors. I screwed the reflectors on to my time pedals last winter but as they overhang the pedals I managed to knock them both off after a week so ended up riding illegally for most of the winter commutes. Also the vast majority of my cycling gear is black and I don't fancy buying a whole new wardrobe or wearing one of those big yellow reflective vests on a training ride.
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    Probably the cheapest and most effective thing is to get some of those yellow wrap around reflector things and put one round each ankle. With the motion they should attract attention, as pedal reflectors do. Like this one. Some on the wrists might aid arm signalling too. Okay, maybe a bit naff but if they work...

    By the way, Hi-Viz doesn't really work so well at night, it's a daytime thing, so it is reflectives that you need (though a lot of products combine both).
  • alfablue wrote:
    I ride on an unlit railway path at night and I use a Fenix L2D CE Q5 (Orange Peel reflector) torch

    Having read this thread, I'm going to buy one of these with the mount.

    But what is an Orange Peel reflector? What does it do? And why do I need one?

    Thanks

    Richie
  • hothead wrote:
    Going to be my first year of riding into work in the dark, so one or two questions:-

    1. Do I point the front light downwards?

    2. Anyone know where I can get little flashing lights for my back/bag and helmet lights?

    Cheers :)

    I point my main light (the Supernova E3) as far down the road as possible. Initially it seems better (brighter) to have it focussing on the road nearer to the bike but this doesn't actually enable you to see further ahead- you merely look at the pool of light rather than into the distance. I tend to focus as far ahead as the light throws and use peripheral vision to pick up potholes in front of the wheel.
    I don't worry too much about dazzling cars coming the other way since the light is only 3W (compared to 2x55W on a car). I've never been "flashed" so it can't be too bad.
    Cars do "dip" when they're coming towards me though :D
  • alfablue wrote:
    Probably the cheapest and most effective thing is to get some of those yellow wrap around reflector things and put one round each ankle. With the motion they should attract attention, as pedal reflectors do. Like this one. Some on the wrists might aid arm signalling too. Okay, maybe a bit naff but if they work...

    By the way, Hi-Viz doesn't really work so well at night, it's a daytime thing, so it is reflectives that you need (though a lot of products combine both).

    Wot he said.
    The bands around the ankles are really effective.
    Aldi sometimes sell some with flashing red LEDs on them.
    In my experience they don't like getting wet !
  • woody-som
    woody-som Posts: 1,001
    try the madison slap wraps for the legs and arms. CRC have them, and I find they work really well as a simple reflective, may not be the cheapest but made well.
  • having them on your arms is always recomeded, cars dont normally see you indicate in the dark if you dont have them on
  • shmo
    shmo Posts: 321
    Cheers for tips much appreciated.
  • BUICK
    BUICK Posts: 362
    Careful of new routes in the dark would be my advice - after last night! I ended up barrelling down a section of road that I know, but not that well - only saw the giant pothole (about a foot round and about half as deep) at the last second. I managed to hoist the front end over it but didn't have the time or the strength at that second to lift the rear wheel, which is now decidedly bent!
    '07 Langster (dropped one tooth from standard gearing)
    '07 Tricross Sport with rack and guards
    STUNNING custom 953 Bob Jackson *sigh*
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    alfablue wrote:
    I ride on an unlit railway path at night and I use a Fenix L2D CE Q5 (Orange Peel reflector) torch

    Having read this thread, I'm going to buy one of these with the mount.

    But what is an Orange Peel reflector? What does it do? And why do I need one?

    Thanks

    Richie
    There are smooth reflectors and orange peel reflectors. The orange peel one is textured so that it makes for a smoother beam (less of a "hot spot" in the middle) at the expense of ultimate throw (distance). The orange peel doesn't have a dramatic effect on throw. Either is fine, possibly the orange peel is marginally better for our use. If using two, one of each makes sense.
  • Great thread. I will be commuting to work on the Leeds Ring Road some days but it is quite good at night for training as as it is dual carriage-way, well-lit and a good surface and not that busy at about 20:00

    I think 2 rear lights is key, maybe one flashing and one on and a good front light. I prefer rechargeables but carry a spare pair as they die very quickly.

    Still not sure re the front lights. I deffo do not want a helmet light and the ayup look good but are quite pricey and provide too much
    ============================================

    FCN is minimal as I don't see many bikes on the way to work
  • The outer ring road in leeds has enough street lights to see where you are going, its the cars you have to be careful of on that road
  • nickcuk
    nickcuk Posts: 275
    In my experience, if you think ahead during 'daylight hours' you can identify routes suitable for night-time blasts. I have a lovely 17 mile circuit that takes me towards Jodrell Bank twice, no big potholes, no loose dogs, no d*heads in their souped up corsas, just scary fast forest sections, plenty of wildlife and enough crossroads to identify where I am if I come a real cropper !
  • Well I've just done my first night ride tonight. One hour over 14 miles of 99% totally unlit roads and my it is a strange experience. I got myself some Ay-Up front road lights and a Cateye and Blackburn Mars 4 on the tail - darkness here I come.

    What I learnt on my first ride:
    1. It's dark - no you don't get it - it's totally black out in the country - be prepared
    2. The front light has got to be good - don't skimp - when you stop for a minute and
    switch the lights off you'll know what I'm talking about.
    3. The front light has to be good enough to see the road up ahead a fair distance,
    especially when descending at speed - the Ay-Up is good for 30m or so.
    4. Climbs that are tough in the day time are still tough at night - with one important
    exception - you can't see as far ahead therefore, mentally, your immediate goal is
    30m and not 1/2 a mile.
    5. Do not allow you're mind to play tricks on you - there is nothing in the shadows -
    there is nothing chasing you from the inky blackness behind your rear lights.
    6. Cars approaching from the opposite direction will almost stop when they reach you if
    you have bright lamps - they just don't know what you are - and when they realise
    what you are they must think you are insane to be in the middle of nowhere - in the
    dark - on a bike.
    7. Know your route very well - the road looks very different at night with just the glow
    from your headlights.
    8. And finally the feeling you get when you are near journeys end and you are
    freewheeling and watching the stars above is righteous and pure and worth all the
    sweat and frights you've had leading up to it.

    Will I be going out again - sure thing!
    cheers
    tenbar
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    Hey, Tenbar! I'm glad you did it and enjoyed it! Good lessons learned too.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    i tend to use roads I've ridden before at night - then you have a better idea of where the potholes/hazards are.

    I also bung some tyreflies on my valves - cost a couple of quid from ebay and gives good visibility from the side. Also reflective tape is all over my winter bike and if I feel like it - I've got a long sleeve mesh vest with reflectives on as well that goes over my kit.

    Oh a peaked helmet is good - so car drivers dont dazzle you. I've put reflective tape on the top of the peak too - so that will show up as well.

    Cycling at night is a real buzz.
  • BUICK
    BUICK Posts: 362
    Can't remember if this has been said already now, but if you go out too late in the evening it can potentially affect your sleep as your body is coursing with natural chemistry and isn't ready to settle down. Just something to consider!
    '07 Langster (dropped one tooth from standard gearing)
    '07 Tricross Sport with rack and guards
    STUNNING custom 953 Bob Jackson *sigh*
  • Tenbar, couldn't agree more with your 8 points, night riding is fantastic.

    My wife sometimes asks if I get scarred being out there all alone, but I feel safer in the quiet darkness, away from the lit streets and chav filled street corners.

    It's the quiet and total darkness that's magic (apart from the occassional "Scooby Doo" pair of eyes that I see in the bushes). But that's just a man in a costume isn't it ? :shock:

    I use a Lumicyle 20Watt Spot for my front light. Lights the road brilliantly. I've been down hills in total darkness using this light and been touching 40mph and never come close to outrunning the light.
    Wind. Cold. Rain. Pick two.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Faster than the speed of light would be an achievement ! Keep pedalling !
  • Phekdra
    Phekdra Posts: 137
    tenbar wrote:
    Well I've just done my first night ride tonight. One hour over 14 miles of 99% totally unlit roads and my it is a strange experience. I got myself some Ay-Up front road lights and a Cateye and Blackburn Mars 4 on the tail - darkness here I come.

    Tenbar, that sounds identical to my setup - Ay-Up plus Mars 4 plus Cateye, and reading your wonderful description I could visualise my favourite weekend ride in the dark. I can't wait! :D

    Phekdra
  • sicknote
    sicknote Posts: 901
    Not sure if this is any help but I came from Tesco's today and all of they lights have been reduced.
    For some it might be worth a look :)
  • Nick6891
    Nick6891 Posts: 274
    i work in tesco and ill tell you they are crap

    if you want it just so cars can see you and ride through well lit roads then they are ok but if not then dont get them
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Even the LED ones ? I've seen people on MTB offroading with 2 of them on the bars ?