Spesh E150 Fork. Min & max lines on Stanchions

subjude101

Can anyone give an answer to this?
I have an 08 Specialized Enduro Expert in a Large size. Do the E150 forks come in different sizes, lengths?
The reason for what may seem a silly question is that the Minimum & Maximum markings on my stanchions suggest that I should have an extra 1/2 inch protruding from top of upper crown if my forks lower clamp is set on the minimum Extension line, but there is no extra stanchion protruding to allow forks to be adjusted to the maximum line so as to raise the front of the bike. I have seen other Enduros set to minimum with the extra stanchion protrusion in other bike shops but the staff could not answer my question even though they had bikes set up differently.

I'm not having a problem with the bike or forks but sometimes adjusting a bikes geometry by an inch or two can drastically improve/ruin its feel.

Hope someone can help.

Anonymous

i think the difference is to allow the fitting of a taller head set, i just fitted a chris king to mine and the crowns are at the top of the fork and the very bottom too it only just fits!!:

subjude101

Thanks for the response. How did you upload picture?
Can't tell from picture but if you raised your rubber stoppers is your lower clamp on the Min or Max line? My Headset is a Lanusse? Doesn't look any shallower than your King.
Has the headset made a difference? What was the reason for changing?

Thanks again.

Anonymous

the very bottom of the bottom crown is just on the lowest lines on the fork and with the king fitted, the top of the top clamp is just below the switches so it all only just fits.

the king is taller than the lanusse which was on there as standard, i only swapped it as i had one on another bike and wanted to put the gucci parts on the enduro when i got it, there is no performane upgrade but i just like it.

as for the picture, use the following format:



in the gap you put the location of the picture you want to show. the pic has to be loaded onto the net first then open the picture, right click it, choose properties and it will give the pic details, just cut and past them between the img tags and it should work.[/img]

subjude101

Therefore you have the same setup as mine. But, back to my question, if there is a max line should there not be another 1/2-inch of stanchion protruding from top allowing you to raise front of bike another inch?
Its just that I have seen E150's on other Enduros, maybe they were smaller frames can't remember, with the stanchions rising from the top.

Thanks again for your help.

As a side note to another Enduro owner; I heard a rumor that as of 2009 the E150's were only going to be available on the carbon 09 models. Will Spesh stand by our 5 year guarantees and not replace with Talas forks if we develop a problem?

What shoes do you wear with your flat pedals?

I'm looking for a bash guard or chain guide with skid plate, any ideas? Do you have one fitted? A chain guide with plate is preferred option as I don't want to loose big ring.

Anonymous

i dont know about other bikes to be fair. i only just got mine and it needs to go for a warranty replacement already :?

the new bikes will have fox forks except for the sworks version i think mainly because the forks are too expensive and not making enough profit (or it might be because they keep breaking but i doubt they would put a tonk fork on their most expensive bike!!)

spesh are standing by their 5 yr commitment and you will be getting repairs, my dealings with spesh uk have been awesome, top top service even as a second hand owner, they have given me a 2 yr warranty as im no the original purchaser but i couldnt be happier with this.

i dont wear owt special with my pedals, usually my running shoes and they work fine but i fancy a set of 5.10s as they are ruputed to be the biz

as for bash guard, ive never used one or thought about it tbh but i know e13 do a guide with a "taco" skid plate which gets ace reviews, i think it can only be used on single front rings. start a new thread for advice about that one

hope this all helps

johnheaton

I got an e-thirteen drs on my 08 enduro.

Its a chain guide / bash guard that works with 2 chain rings.

Works a treat. Its the old isg version you need. for the current frame, fits with out any modification.

My chain used to jump off and jam up every time i landed off something / rode through a boulder garden before I fitted it.

Not come off since. And i still have a granny ring.

AdeLud

Great thread - I've had my 2008 Enduro Comp for a couple of months now and am very pleased with it.

I've also recently removed big chain ring and fitted a bashguard which suits the type of riding I do.

However, like John above, whilst riding rocky downhills or doing drops etc I keep getting the chain bounce off middle ring, small ring then jam solid on the frame, locking the cranks. I've removed a couple of chainlinks which has improved things slightly but was also thinking of a E13 Dual Ring chain device. It's useful to hear that it's the old ISG mount I need.

Are there any other other alternative chain tensioner products out there worth trying?

I've read in this months MBR that these forks should be serviced every 50hrs riding. I assume sticking to this schedule will be essential to keep the 5yrs warranty effective?

I also read there's only 15cc of oil in the fork to lube dust wiper seals. I'm pretty sure most of mine has weeped out from the shraeder valve which doesn't appear to have been properly sealed against the bottom of the fork leg. After one ride in particular I touched the valve and 2 of my fingers were quite wet with oil. Since then I rub the valve after each ride and there's usually enough oil to leave wet thread marks on my finger.

I have managed to nip the shraeder up ever so slightly but it's not easy to get a socket or spanner on it due to the mouldings on the bottom of the fork leg.

Anyone else had a similar problem?

Ade

whatgearyouusing

Subjude - I recently bought a new 2008 Enduro Comp in Large.I had the same problem as you,not enough stanchion length to attain "max extension" I emailed Spesh Uk and this is what they said

"The small, medium and large all have the same forks. carbon large and XL bikes have XL forks. Carbon bikes have a bigger headtube."

Therefore you can get XL stanchions.I sent my forks to Spesh Uk and they fitted new XL stanchions & XL cartridges and it cost me £50.That was because my bike was nearly new and my stanchions which were unmarked could be returned to stock.If youhave an older bike and your stanchions cant be returned to stock, they will still fit XL stanchions but it will cost you £200 :shock: Apparently XL stanchions are not an option at the time of purchase :evil:

Adelud - when my forks went back to Spesh Uk for a refit(as above) I was informed that there was no oil in the forks, although I had only done 30ish miles.They said there should be 20cc.They also said that the forks should be serviced every year to validate the warranty.

What upgrades have you Enduro owners done to your bikes then? Just wondering if youve blinged them up at all

Anonymous

thomson post, king headset and stans no tubes for me, none of it makes any difference in a blind taste test but i do like shiny things!!

im toying with the idea of a set of roval wheels too but thats a way off yet.

subjude101

whatgearyouusing
Thanks buddy, will get onto them asap as I'm about to put bike in for 1st service.

hucking_fell

subjude101 wrote:

I'm looking for a bash guard or chain guide with skid plate, any ideas? Do you have one fitted? A chain guide with plate is preferred option as I don't want to loose big ring.

You could use an MRP XCG.

Review.

SDK2007

AdeLud wrote:

I've read in this months MBR that these forks should be serviced every 50hrs riding. I assume sticking to this schedule will be essential to keep the 5yrs warranty effective?

The official Specialized service schedule for both the E150 fork and AFR shock is 250 hours

chilledsandwich

250 hours is correct, but that is to be sent back to TF Tuned to have a full-on service. This needs to be done to keep the 5 year warranty. I tend to drop the lowers on mine about once every 4-6 weeks, just to make sure that there is oil in there, the seals are clean and nothing is stuck in there ready to scratch my beautiful stanchions!!

I have an upgraded '08 SL Comp and love it to bits!! It is so good at doing absolutely everything!!

Out of interest whatgearyouusing, what caused you to need to change the length of your stanchions? Was it a headset change? If so, what did you change to, I have a large frame and was looking at possibly a Hope or maybe even a Chris King headset, but I don't really like the idea of going beyond the max in that way!

AdeLud

My bike's still pretty standard:





The lockon grips in red
Kona Jack Sh*t flat pedals
Big chain ring removed
Bashguard fitted
Blackspire Stinger chain tensioner
Vistalight Nightsticks (5w & 20w) for night rides
Respray in Exmoor mud brown!!

Loving it!

AdeLud

Chilledsandwich - what do you mean "drop the lowers and check there's oil in there"?

I'm certain all my oil has leaked out. Is there something I can do to check? I always smear a little clean engine oil on the dust wiper seals before every ride and cycle the forks a few times to pull out dirt and make sure the stanchions are lubed.

chilledsandwich

AdeLud, basically, roughly follow the instructions on the video HERE from Tim Flooks. It can look a bit daunting at first, but it is definitely better to take it off the bike as he has done in the video. Just make sure you have all the tools you think you will need to hand, and take it slow and easy. No point in rushing it and making a mistake.
The E150 forks simply have cartridges in both legs, so there's not really any moving parts to misplace.
THIS should help you out as well. It is simply a nice easy step by step service guide specific to the E150 forks. You may not have to do everything on here, but it is nice to have, just in case you wonder what something is/does.
And then for putting it all back together, THIS will help you out with all of the torque settings etc for the clamps on the forks.

You may not need to do this as regularly as I do. I do it purely because I live in Wales where it is notoriously wet and there is a lot of grit and sand where I ride, and I tend to use the bike at least once a week.

Hope this has helped, any Q's, give a shout.

Btw, is that a standard Crud Catcher on the front of your bike? How did you fit that? Did you use the rubber band things around the frame or is there a way of bolting it in place?

AdeLud

Chilledsandwich Thanks for the above - really useful stuff. You're right, it does look a bit daunting! I might give it a go when I'm feeling brave enough, have purchased the tools required and have enough time to do it slowly and methodically as you suggest.

It's good to see what the internals are like and how everything fits together. I like to have an understanding of the mechanics I use and abuse each ride!

Yes, the Crudcatcher is standard and is secured using the 2 black elastic bands they supply with it. When I bought my Enduro I fitted the Crudcatcher from my old Marin at first. However, it had slightly deformed with age and didn't sit right on the Enduro.

I treated the Enduro to a new Crudcatcher and realised that the 2 bosses on the underside of the downtube were going to hold it off the frame and cause it to warp and slip sideways slightly, looking a bit pants!

Next treat for the Enduro (and my face!) will be a larger size Rapid Racer Products Neoguard for the forks. Really worked well on my last bike. Couldn't see anything through my goggles today with all the spray thrown forward off the front wheel.

So out came the toolbox and I drilled 2 holes in the Crudcatcher and located it over the bosses. With the the bosses pushed through the holes I find this keeps the Crudcatcher central on the downtube despite any amount of vibration during riding (or indeed crashing on knarly wet rooty forest downhills like today!) It's a nice tight fit with the elastic bands they supply.

whatgearyouusing

Chilledsandwich - I changed to XL stanchions on my bike to alter the geometry.As I said my original stanchions offered hardly any adjustment at all.When I got my bike it had a horrible riding position.All my weight was over the front of the wheel and it was extremely difficult to lift the front wheel when riding.Also using the Attitude Adjustment was impossible as it made it worse to ride.I swapped to aThomson Layback post and that helped and the XL stanchions suit my riding syle more.I have some minor lower back/hamstring problems so I dont suffer as much the more I sit upright.I am still using the original headset.Thanks for the link to the Maintenance guide.

AdeLud - Love the pic of your bike covered in sh*t!!!!!!! That's what its for!!!!

Have you lads had any problems with the paint on your frames? My black COMP seems to scratrch very very easily.The top tube has some very minor scratches on it that I assume have come from my jersey hanging down.Gonna have to cover it in helicopter tape.Ive never known paintwork to scratch so easy before.

AdeLud

Whatgearyouusing Yes - my black comp does seem to pick up scratches very easily. I noticed significant cable rub on the headset just below the Specialized "S" logo from the rear mech cable after only one or two rides!

Since then it's picked up a few scratches but to be fair they're due to the odd crash as opposed to just rubbing against gorse etc.

It's almost like the matt finish is due to Spesh forgetting to spray lacquer/varnish on the frame! I had read about this about the comp model on forums before I bought mine.

Before I ordered mine I test rode an expert model from my LBS (all they had) and from memory that paint did seem better protected.

Let us know how you get on with the helicopter tape mate.

chilledsandwich

Yes, I had noticed that it can scratch quite easily!! I have quite a few marks on the rear stays where my size 13s come in contact, and then a big scratch on the top-tube behined the head tube where I put it in the car with another bike on top. I was gutted when I did that!

Whatgearyouusing, would you mind putting up a photo of your bike? Would be interested to see how that would look. What sort of riding do you normally do? I would imagine you are quite far over the back.

whatgearyouusing

Chilledsandwich - pic of my bike as requested (been waiting for a dry day )



I generally go trail riding around Derbys/Notts and the occasional visit to say Llandegla.I dont really jump the bike much, I just feel happier & more comfortable with my weight more to the rear.

Adelud - if you look closely at the "Enduro" graphic you can see the first piece of Copter Tape Ive applied.Im amazed at how it moulds itself to the frame-that part of the frame is allsorts of different shapes.Not ridden on it or washed it yet but Ill let you know.

The upgrades/changes Ive made to my bike are: Thomson Layback Seatpost,Charge Spoon saddle,chocolate spesh grips,XT rear cassette,Hope QR seat clamp,DMR V12 Magnesium pedals, and Conti Supersonic tyres with Michelin Latex tubes.None of it really makes me go that much faster or easier to climb, but I like it so who cares.Disappointed with the V12's as the paint rubbed off on the first ride.Ive also managed to snap an allen screw off somehow taking some of the magnesium pedal with it :shock:

Poss further upgrades? I shouldnt mind some Avid Elixir brakes.Im happy with the performance of the Juicy 5's,its just that the black bolts/allen screws/banjo's etc have all faded to a sh*tty grey colour and makes yer bike look cr*p :roll:

chilledsandwich

Looks really good whatgearyouusing, I'm very tempted to get the Charge Spoon saddle and the Thomson Layback saddle, similar to your set-up, but am thinking of waiting to see what sort of write ups the Specialized Command Post gets and maybe investing in one of those.
I can see what a big difference the longer stanchions have made, a lot more room to play about with and will bring the controls on top of the forks much closer.

Will have to post up a few photos of mine. Is currently quite poorly, back at my LBS with a knackered travel adjust cartridge. Third problem I've had with the forks, so this time I have had them sent back to Specialized for them to have a proper look at to make sure that I will have them back in full working order. Pity really, as when they work, they are amazing!! Is back in the shop now, so will hopefully pick it up tomorrow, see what they have to say!

paradox1509

Hopefully here is a pic of my stanchions (frame size M)

[img][C:\Documents and Settings\paradox1509\Desktop\DSC04454.JPG/img][/img]

paradox1509

bollox didnt work


any ideas?

chilledsandwich

Should be . Also, not sure if you can do it from your computer, pretty sure you would need to upload it to photobucket or similar.
This is an old photo of mine, will hopefully get some new ones tomorrow, have made a few changes since this was taken


And yes, the seat is very high, I am quite tall.

paradox1509

paradox1509

Thx Chilled sandwich!

sniper68

I spoke to Spesh Uk re the forks on the new bikes(i have an 08 expert)apparently the forks to buy would cost around £800 :shock: which is why they're only on the pro carbon.They can't make them any cheaper.Personally i think its a top fork
Mines been back in once(when 2 weeks old,the attitude adjuster didn't hold)Spesh told me that "a number"of the forks had been laquered on the inside of the left leg only,hence the travel adjuster not working)

Worth noting 8)

subjude101

Just sent bike for service & fitting of longer stanchions. LBS will also fit an MRP XCG on its return. Thanks all for help.

SDK2007

Some good info in here.
Thought I would also post a photo of my bike.