Data Collection - Rider weight Vs Tyre Pressure
stevieboy
Posts: 704
Sorry if this has been done - but as a rough guide for newbies to the sport I'm trying to compile a database and associated graphs for tyre pressures Vs rider weights.
I know this is is down to personal preference, conditions, tyres etc etc etc but as a general guide I think it will be useful.
So, all i'm after is:
Rider weight:
Dry Front:
Dry Rear:
Wet Front:
Wet Rear:
Xc/DH/Fr
Tubeless of tubed
I'll start
Rider weight: 10st 1 lb
Dry Front: 40
Dry Rear: 45
Wet Front:30
Wet Rear:35
Xc
tubed
I know this is is down to personal preference, conditions, tyres etc etc etc but as a general guide I think it will be useful.
So, all i'm after is:
Rider weight:
Dry Front:
Dry Rear:
Wet Front:
Wet Rear:
Xc/DH/Fr
Tubeless of tubed
I'll start
Rider weight: 10st 1 lb
Dry Front: 40
Dry Rear: 45
Wet Front:30
Wet Rear:35
Xc
tubed
Scott Scale Custom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09729.jpg
Kona Coilair 2007 Dark Peak Destroyer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09727.jpg
"BOCD - If it aint perfect it aint good enough"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09729.jpg
Kona Coilair 2007 Dark Peak Destroyer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09727.jpg
"BOCD - If it aint perfect it aint good enough"
0
Comments
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Rider weight: 11st 8 lb
Dry Front: 60 if mostly hardpack 40 if mostly off road
Dry Rear: 60 (same as above) or 40
Wet Front: 35
Wet Rear:35
Xc
tubed0 -
And just think, while you're sat collating all that data, we'll be out riding our bikes.
I have about "that much" in my tyres (makes squeezing motion with thumb)...0 -
also you had better add trail conditions to that list, more rocks more air.
Oh tyre compound effects what pressure i run.
Also i do not have a calibrated gauge to give you the info. like Dave it is a "thats about right" and add a bit for this trail and take a bit out for this trail...."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
dave_hill wrote:And just think, while you're sat collating all that data, we'll be out riding our bikes.
I have about "that much" in my tyres (makes squeezing motion with thumb)...
Thanks for that, I must remember to increase my current riding/training schedule from 100 miles a week to a level up near your's once i've collected this info :PScott Scale Custom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09729.jpg
Kona Coilair 2007 Dark Peak Destroyer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09727.jpg
"BOCD - If it aint perfect it aint good enough"0 -
stevieboy wrote:I know this is is down to personal preference, conditions, tyres etc etc etc but as a general guide I think it will be useful.
I know there are many factors, hence the above.
Obviously i'm being ridiculous in trying to provide people with a benchmark to play with. I've lost count of the times i've been asked by obvious newcomers to the sport about tyre pressures - and there's loads of posts on here asking the same too. This was never intended to be a guide for those in the know, more for those who don't know. We've all been there at some point afterall haven't we?Scott Scale Custom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09729.jpg
Kona Coilair 2007 Dark Peak Destroyer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09727.jpg
"BOCD - If it aint perfect it aint good enough"0 -
Whoa whoa whoa....
you mean theres a number that can be attatched to the 'About that much' system ive been using....
*checks* sooo thats what that dial is for
Atm im feeling a bit of a numpty ive been running mine at about 35 on reasonably hard stuff and uhhh about 35 of the softer stuff and loose flint...
I think im one of those numpties that need this advice please
Btw im 11St and ride on hardpack, to road, to loose flint down a steepish hill to general mud track0 -
Dont you need to know which tyres they have too; more to the point, what size tyres and the width of rims (narrow/fat/normal).
The larger the volume of the tyre, the lower the pressure you need to run to support the same weight.
I don't know my pressures, as someone else has said... I squeeze the tyre's. Last time I checked though... 25-30psi on front / 30-35psi on rear.. Thats for all off-roading (rocks/roots/mud/clay). 50psi all round for road.
Rider weight: 55 Kilo's.
Tyres: Maxxis Ignitors 2.10 -
I personally have my tyres heated and prepared for a ride, then do some F1 style zig-zagging to get the pressures up before cycling to the shop. Takes me bloody ages!."I don't do double-entendres, but I do like to slip a big one in occasionally"
Giant Trance X2 / Garmin Edge 305 / Empty Wallet0 -
I never run more than 45psi either end, a lot depends on the volume of the tyres also.
I've just found more than 45psi gives a lot less grip - never really considered this to be low. Tried tubeless for a while & use to run about 25 on a hardtail. But out on the trail, it's just 'this feels about right'
If you run high pressure on wet rock, roots etc your chances of staying on are very low. Bike control will be mostly luck...
Also, some tyres seem to vastly increase in grip at lower pressures & others seem to stay more consistent.
I'm about 13st.0 -
I've got both the front and rear at 32psi, thats Maxxis ignitors in 2.35" the eXception series on DT Swiss 5.1D hoops, all attached to a Specialized Pitch (140mm front/150mm rear travel).
I do keep on reading that for general trailtype duties the lower the pressure you can get away with teh smoother you'll be as the tyre deflects better over rough stuff.0 -
I just give my tyres a kick
that is right in it ???0 -
10.5 stone
I ride XC involving rocks, and roots and do a lot of 'techy' climbing.
I use Conti Speed King Supersonics with Stans NoTubes on a hardtail and always run at about 28psi on the front and about 32psi on the rear whatever the weather.Will0 -
Bmjboy wrote:I personally have my tyres heated and prepared for a ride, then do some F1 style zig-zagging to get the pressures up before cycling to the shop. Takes me bloody ages!.
Personally, I go down the drag-racing route and "burn out" - put the bike in bottom gear, stand on the pedals and sprint like fury with the front brake clamped on. Lights the back tyre up a treat and makes it really sticky! :P0 -
stevieboy wrote:I must remember to increase my current riding/training schedule from 100 miles a week to a level up near your's once i've collected this info :P
I'd post a response but I'm rapidly losing the will to live...0 -
About 35psi in both tyres, for all conditions - I rarely check them to be honest! I like running the same pressure for predictability - and the surface changes a lot in Wharncliffe!
Oh, Crossmax Enduro rims, Tioga 2.0 Red Phoenix UST tyres.0 -
Thanks guys, keep em comingScott Scale Custom
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09729.jpg
Kona Coilair 2007 Dark Peak Destroyer
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/ ... C09727.jpg
"BOCD - If it aint perfect it aint good enough"0 -
Well I come in at 9st 10lb but that's not an all up weight add to that backpack with all that survival gear plus up to 3 litres of water and now we are up to 10st 8lb. Must get rid of that life raft in the backpack think it's overdoing the survival element.
Tyres rear Maxxis DH minion kevlar 2.35 at 28psi. Front Maxxis Highroller kevlar 2.35 at 26psi
these pressures are good enough for mud on the flat and stony fast downhill.
If the mud is uphill and downhill then I would drop down to 20psi if traction was a problem. Tried this out the other day after a deluge to make sure that the tube did not get pulled round
In the early 80's some people I rode with had 650 rims with Nokian tyres they would a times on the chalk downs be down as low as 10psi. The tubes were nearly as heavy as the tyre,.could not go that low with pressures in other makes at the time.Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"0