try using a tyre lever or other poking device to gently push the piston further back into the caliper. i had a similar problem once and this sorted it out.
If you have an old set of pads, whip the pads out, fit the old ones, use a tyre lever/screwdriver/spanner to push them back in. Swap back to original pads. Sorted.
Stumpy, Rockhopper (stolen!) & custom SX Trail II - that should do it!
I have a similar problem with Avid Juicy 5's while replacing the pads with some new ones from discobrakes. I have the old pads out, but can't squeeze the new ones back in. I've tried putting the old pads back in and separating them, any other tips? Do I just need to be more forceful, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks - will try and make sure when i get home. Visually, it just looked like there wasn't enough room to get both pads back in side-by-side past the piston pegs. Should it be very tight, or must I try and spread them further?
Push the pistons right back in with a big screwdriver (using the flat edge) - they shouldn't be in the way at all and should stay retracted. Slot the pads back in (they will click into place) making sure they are sitting properly in the spring clip, stick the wheel back on and all should work fine.
Just DON'T squeeze the brake lever without the rotor in place - it's a pain to prize the pads apart.
I just did this on mine, but what I have found is that the actual levers feel different, as in I have to pull slightly more on one than the other, something that on magura hs33's for example I would have just dialled the levers to match, is there such a thing on the juicy 3's? as I just rang up the shop where I got them and they said I would have to bleed them, seems a little extreme
ok, I reread the manual for the brakes and the only adjustment I can see is the reach adjustment. Sorry for the noob question, but does this physically change the starting point of the levers or does it change the point at which the pressure closes the pads properly, just wanted to ask before I actually started fiddling.
It's nothing to do with the pistons, and is just the starting point of the lever.
If you want a more adjustable brake, then you want the Juicy 7's. It's basically 100% the same as the 5's, but, with a knob that lets you define where the bite point is within the lever travel.
Stumpy, Rockhopper (stolen!) & custom SX Trail II - that should do it!
I'm not entirely sure what I did, but they both feel perfect now, gonna have to try and get used to this hydraulic disk brake malarky at some point!!
I did just have a fiddle with some juicy 7's in halfords and they do look good, but if mine stay like this i'm happy.
On a side note, went into halfords to get a set of allen keys as mine have scarpered, got home, and the one allen key that I actually needed in the set was completely round, just a steel rod!!! What a day!
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Carbon 456
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White Inbred
have a read of parktools.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
I have a similar problem with Avid Juicy 5's while replacing the pads with some new ones from discobrakes. I have the old pads out, but can't squeeze the new ones back in. I've tried putting the old pads back in and separating them, any other tips? Do I just need to be more forceful, or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
Just DON'T squeeze the brake lever without the rotor in place - it's a pain to prize the pads apart.
Thanks for the help.
Jon
Cheers again
If you want a more adjustable brake, then you want the Juicy 7's. It's basically 100% the same as the 5's, but, with a knob that lets you define where the bite point is within the lever travel.
I did just have a fiddle with some juicy 7's in halfords and they do look good, but if mine stay like this i'm happy.
On a side note, went into halfords to get a set of allen keys as mine have scarpered, got home, and the one allen key that I actually needed in the set was completely round, just a steel rod!!! What a day!
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown