What exactly is a tubeless set up?
sirlylos
Posts: 234
Gents,
How are we all, good weekend?
I was out with a mate on a trek yesterday and he got a puncture near the end. It wasn't too much of a hassle putting a new tube in but I've just noticed a post on tubeless setups and must admit I don't know that much about it.
is it worth doing this? If so what exactly does it entail and does it mean far less punctures?
Thanks in advance 8)
How are we all, good weekend?
I was out with a mate on a trek yesterday and he got a puncture near the end. It wasn't too much of a hassle putting a new tube in but I've just noticed a post on tubeless setups and must admit I don't know that much about it.
is it worth doing this? If so what exactly does it entail and does it mean far less punctures?
Thanks in advance 8)
1993 - Ridgeback 301 G3
1995 - Ridgeback 601 GS
1997 - Specialized Hardrock
2003 - Specialized FSR XC
2008 - Specialized Epic FSR Comp
2009 - Giant Defy 3
2010 - Voodoo Wanga
2012 - Cannondale Supersix 105
1995 - Ridgeback 601 GS
1997 - Specialized Hardrock
2003 - Specialized FSR XC
2008 - Specialized Epic FSR Comp
2009 - Giant Defy 3
2010 - Voodoo Wanga
2012 - Cannondale Supersix 105
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Comments
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For running tubeless you would need an old innertube, preferrably off a 24 or a 20 inch wheel and some sealant.
Cut the old tube in half along the seal so its like rim tape with a valve sticking out. Put it on like it were rim tape, with the valve through the valve hole obviously. Then stick a load of sealant in and pump it up.
In theory.
It should mean less punctures but theyre a right bell end when you do get them.You can still stick a tube in to get you home though. Also its supposed to handle better and be a tad lighter. Im thinking of doing it but I have my reservations. After sitting on top of ilkley moor for 15 mintues covered in snot green slime, I'm unsure as to whether this could be the same (but white).0 -
This kit includes everything you need:
http://www.blazingsaddlescycles.co.uk/product_info.php?language=en¤cy=GBP&products_id=257"Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling." ~James E. Starrs0 -
andy's method isn't the usual way to do things, stans usually works very well, but you do need a track pump/compressor depending on your tyre combo.0
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you can use something like a stans kit to convert normal wheels to tubeless or you can have tubeless ready wheels.
in either setup you ar ebetter off using proper tubeless tyres as oppose to trying to use regular tyres.
i use stans on the willow and mavic tubeless wheels on the stumpy. i dont notice any performance improvements and neither kit is lighter than a tubed set up but both offer much improved puncture resistance.
tha being said, i pretty much never get punctures any way, is an expensive thing to do in my opinion and hardly worth the ar$eache0 -
Thanks for the feedback fella's, I now know.
I think I'll stick with the conventional inner tube method, the tubeless seems like a right chew. I don't get that many punctures and if I do it takes minutes to get a new tube in. My mate gets them all the time but I think it's his cheapo tyres.
1993 - Ridgeback 301 G3
1995 - Ridgeback 601 GS
1997 - Specialized Hardrock
2003 - Specialized FSR XC
2008 - Specialized Epic FSR Comp
2009 - Giant Defy 3
2010 - Voodoo Wanga
2012 - Cannondale Supersix 1050 -
i think that tubeless is probably a good idea for racers who need to guarantee no punctures in a race but for the rest of the cycling world, i reckon the opportunity to fix a puncture is a chance for a rest, c'mon, i cant be the only one who needs a rest!?!?!0
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sheepsteeth wrote:i think that tubeless is probably a good idea for racers who need to guarantee no punctures in a race but for the rest of the cycling world, i reckon the opportunity to fix a puncture is a chance for a rest, c'mon, i cant be the only one who needs a rest!?!?!
I need more than one rest!!!!0 -
sheepsteeth wrote:i think that tubeless is probably a good idea for racers who need to guarantee no punctures in a race...I am a mountain biking god.
Unfortunately, my bike's an atheist.0 -
Come to think of it, it's a good idea for anyone who cycles to work and is liable to get stopped a quarter hours pay for being five minutes late.I am a mountain biking god.
Unfortunately, my bike's an atheist.0 -
If penetration punctures are not a problem for you, but impact punctures are, then tubeless is the way to go.
They work brilliantly here in Sydney because our trails are dry and rocky, but I can imagine they'd be less of an advantages if you were always riding through two inches of mud.
Horses, courses.John Stevenson0 -
True that, I think the general conclusion is that tubeless works for some and not for others and yes I need rests and lots of them!1993 - Ridgeback 301 G3
1995 - Ridgeback 601 GS
1997 - Specialized Hardrock
2003 - Specialized FSR XC
2008 - Specialized Epic FSR Comp
2009 - Giant Defy 3
2010 - Voodoo Wanga
2012 - Cannondale Supersix 1050 -
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I must admit that since moving to a tubeless system I cannot understand why anyone would still use tubes, advantages:- grip, tyre feel, pressures, no pinch or thorn problems. disadvantages:- about £100 (new tyres UST and rim strips) and 30 mins in the garage to set up.
Time and money well spent in my eyes.
Tubeless its the future (like garlic bread but not as tasty)0 -
i agree, tubeless is great, pinch punctures a thing of the past, if you run sealant you wont get thorn punctures either. really easy to fit with UST riims, just put the tyres on and inflate (a compressor is handy, but not a necessity, track pumps work too)0
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Now I'm slightly tempted - I've just got some Maxxis High Rollers which I imagine would be able to go tubeless. I plan to do a lot of riding over the summer and if I find punctures becoming an issue then I may go down the tubeless route.1993 - Ridgeback 301 G3
1995 - Ridgeback 601 GS
1997 - Specialized Hardrock
2003 - Specialized FSR XC
2008 - Specialized Epic FSR Comp
2009 - Giant Defy 3
2010 - Voodoo Wanga
2012 - Cannondale Supersix 1050